Top 10 Best Perfumes Of 2023

It’s often been said that perfumery doesn’t set trends: it simply latches onto the coat-tails of those formed by other creative endeavours. Perhaps this is why we had to wait until 2023 to detect signs of an overall toning down of fragrance compositions: ‘quiet luxury’ has been a feature of fashion and interior design for a little while, so it was probably inevitable that it would make itself felt in perfumery as well. Sure enough, this year, it was evident not just as an isolated example here and there, but a general stylistic shift, displayed in the output of several brands.

The roots of this change can almost certainly be traced back to the pandemic, and more specifically, to the extended lockdowns many of us had to experience. No doubt because we found ourselves in somewhat shrunken worlds, we felt that the accoutrements with which we filled those worlds didn’t need to be quite as ostentatious as they used to be. Enter: more muted colours, more restrained patterns and, eventually, more subtle scents.

Of course, we still had plenty of assertive new perfumes in 2023: it’s not as though every single brand decided to go silent with their releases. But there’s been an undeniable change in the perception of olfactory loudness, and what was read as bold and insouciant a short while ago is now starting to be perceived as crass and insensitive. This explains why many compositions that would almost certainly have been imbued with a colossal sillage in the recent past were designed to sit closer to the skin. It’ll be fascinating to observe how long this aesthetic sticks around and whether it becomes more pervasive before it does what all trends ultimately do and disappears. Place your bets now for a revival of monster frags in 2026.

As ever, the very best scents of the year were those that carved their own distinct identity and paid no attention to what was or wasn’t considered to be en vogue. Thankfully, we had our fair share of them in 2023, and I’m pleased to be able to present the 10 finest examples to you below. It was heartening (if frustrating) that this year’s list was a bit harder to compile than most, so I feel I have to give honourable mentions to a few creations that didn’t make the final cut. Crivelli Neroli Nasimba (Paul Guerlain; a name to watch), Escentric Molecules H01 (Geza Schoen), Diptyque Eau Nabati (Fabrice Pellegrin), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede extrait (Quentin Bisch), Penhaligon’s The Omniscient Mr Thompson (Fanny Bal), Penhaligon’s Solaris (Alienor Massenet), Peosym Horn OK Please (Florian Gallo), Les Indemodables Patchouli Noisette (Antoine Lie) and Serge Lutens Ecrin De Fumee (Christopher Sheldrake) are all possessed of many commendable attributes and you’d do well to give them a sniff.

Guerlain have also had one of their better years and although I’ve included only one piece from them in the top 10, I feel duty-bound to bring your attention to two limited edition gems that aren’t in the rundown (largely because they’re flankers): Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver Harvest (one of the few releases for which I wish I’d bought a back-up bottle) and the glorious Habit Rouge – Rouge Prive (one of only two releases for which I did buy a back-up bottle, and at lightning speed; please make it a part of the permanent line-up, Guerlain). I’m also going to break one of my own rules (forgive me!) and give a brief shout-out to Amouage Search (Alexis Grugeon), simply because it would be remiss of me not to.

Speaking of shout-outs, before I leave you with the list, I have to say a gigantic, heartfelt, let’s-all-give-each-other-a-group-hug Thank You to each and every one of you. I won’t dwell on this now, but the job of maintaining this site and the YouTube channel while juggling all the other balls that life throws at you certainly isn’t getting any easier. I suspect 2024 is going to have to be the year when I make some tough decisions about precisely where I need to take things with Persolaise (anyone care to share their views on Substack?), but no matter what I do, I know I’ll always be guided by your generosity, kindness and support. You really are a terrific group of readers and viewers, and I always learn so much more from you than you do from me. Thank you, thank you, thank you — for the laughs, the chats and, of course, the heavenly scents. A special Thank You also goes to my most fervent supporter, the one who does so many things in the background that enable me to spend time broadcasting videos and writing blog posts: the legend that is Madame Persolaise.

I wish you all the very best for the year ahead: good health, the company of friends and lots of life-altering, soul-shaking, knee-quaking perfume discoveries. Here’s the list…

Top 10 Best Perfumes Of 2023

Links below are to the original reviews. And here’s a link to the YouTube video that goes with this post: Top 10 best perfumes of 2023.

Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait (Jean-Claude Ellena; 2023)

Heaven may be waiting, but it’s never very far away in this elegant, retro-loving, clove-y iris composition that calls to mind the elegance of bygone Carons. One of the best Malles we’ve had for a while, it marks a commendable development in the brand’s relationship with Jean-Claude Ellena, as well as a fascinating departure from the latter’s usual style.  

Nez 1+1 Adorem (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2022)

A collaboration with chef Akrame Benallal, Adorem sees Pellegrin make use of several varieties of olibanum (including a special Firmenich preparation they call Vulcain) to create what is without question one of the most mesmerising frankincense compositions of the century. Profound, potent and primal, it feels like the essence of nothing less than the core of the Earth. Do note that it’s a limited edition, so if it sounds appealing, snap up a bottle as soon as you can. (PS This was my other back-up bottle purchase!)

Akro Bake (Olivier Cresp; 2023)

So photo-real it almost makes you laugh with disbelief, Bake is a flawless olfactory dessert: a tart lemon filling housed in a softly-yielding, buttery pastry, with a generous helping of Chantilly on the side. Most importantly, it works on skin! Cresp’s gourmand skills have never been more appetising. 

Guerlain Jasmin Bonheur (Thierry Wasser & Delphine Jelk; 2023)

Wasser and Jelk found jasmine’s rarely-seen smile in this apricot-y, powdery, subtly sweet bouquet that links the romance of 90s florals with a streamlined directness that’s entirely 21st century. An exuberant, expressionistic burst of colour whose charm is impossible to resist.

Roberto Greco Rauque (Christopher Sheldrake; 2023)

Sheldrake continues to create praiseworthy work for Lutens, but this limited edition release for Greco is one of his finest pieces in ages, full of the old-world glamour of Habanita (that seductive tobacco note) as well as the sweeping romance of his own Borneo 1834 (the get-into-bed interplay between the patchouli and the benzoin) and the equine passion of Corpus Equus (thumping, sweaty, blood-rushing leather). As raunchy as it is restrained… which is the kind of paradox only perfumery can pull off. 

Diptyque L’Eau Papier (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2023)

With characteristic finesse, Pellegrin shows that a perfume can be both long-lasting and softly-spoken in this metaphorical evocation of the appearance and texture of paper. Steamed rice notes, mimosa and a barely-there pepperiness come together to form one of the year’s most quietly haunting releases. 

Puente Iris Doux (Eliam Puente; 2023)

A rich, multi-faceted iris, this romantic piece of work not only casts its central material in an unexpectedly warm-hearted, generous light (miles away from its usual austere aesthetic) but also successfully presents classical perfumery codes in a confidently modern mode. Conclusion: Eliam Puente is a major talent to watch.

Le Labo Myrrhe 55 (Daphne Bugey; 2023)

When Le Labo turn to the past, they tend to produce some of their most convincing work, and sure enough, this City Exclusive was a compelling take on yesteryear, very much in the style of their own Ylang 49. Metallic, mossy and possessed of an impassioned drydown that stays just on the right side of angry, it’s a nouveau-chypre with old-world panache. 

Eris Delta Of Venus (Antoine Lie; 2023)

‘Exotic’ fruit notes are often recipes for disaster, but if anyone can handle them well, it’s Eris’ founder Barbara Herman (with her extensive knowledge of historical scents) and perfumer Antoine Lie (whose technical skills are second to none). Sure enough, their Delta Of Venus presents a floral, woody guava that remains coherent from start to finish, and is as strange, brave and distinctive as it is wearable.

Carine Roitfeld Forgive Me (Dominique Ropion; 2023)

Arguably an attempt to deal with tuberose in much the same way that he treated jasmine in Mugler Alien, Forgive Me is an example of Ropion in ‘otherworldly’ mode. Connecting the aforementioned flower to patchouli and Cashmeran, he gives us a borderline-frightening, Jekyll-and-Hyde concoction that appears to seek absolution while simultaneously looking for the next opportunity to sin.

Persolaise

[Samples provided by the brands, with the exception of the Roberto Greco, which was obtained by me.]

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