Maison Noir Quandoley 805, To My Ships Polygonum, Jo Malone London Fir & Artemisia, Aramis Tuscany and other reviews – 2024

Ships, trains, airports, Tuscany and the Place Vendome — they all made themselves known in one way or another during a recent session of Love At First Scent over on YouTube, in which I reviewed new releases from Roos & Roos, Jo Malone London, Maison Noir and others. Here are links to the videos, followed by lists with timestamps, as well as a few more odorous reflections: Maison Noir Quandoley 805, Jo Malone London Fir & Artemisia, M Micallef Ma Nature, To My Ships Polygonum, Roos & Roos Couleur Vendome reviews — Aramis Tuscany review.

Roos & Roos Mellerio Couleur Vendome (Dominique Ropion) 4:39
Maison Noir Quandoley 805 (Guillaume Flavigny) 16:53
M Micallef Ma Nature 28:20
Jo Malone London Fir & Artemisia 36:20
To My Ships Of The Gods – Polygonum (Celine Barel) 42:30

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I remain perplexed by Maison Noir Quandoley. Several of you have been in touch to say that you enjoy its olive oil note, but I confess that, for me, its charms have been dwarfed by the oversized sweet bubblegum facet that dominates proceedings at the start. That said, the scent’s Tim Burtonesque journey from pink frothiness to darker territories is intriguing. 

Jo Malone Fir & Artemisia falls into the category of the brand’s more successful releases, largely because it doesn’t try too hard and it presents its central notes with convincing naturalness. The patchouli in the base doesn’t quite fit the overall concept, but it’s not unattractive. Roos & Roos Mellerio Couleur Vendome is perhaps equally ‘safe’, but significantly more faceted. Going against his usual grandiose style, Dominique Ropion fashions an orange blossom-inflected rose composition, of the sort that many would call an ‘office scent’. If all offices smelt like this, I wouldn’t complain. 

More skin time will soon be devoted to Micallef Ma Nature. It may be a touch derivative — we’ve encountered this particular saffron-leather-oud combo more than once before — but it makes the wise decision to not be overly strident. And its clever balance of feminine Arabian codes with more masculine elements is praiseworthy, especially in light of the scent’s name. 

To My Ships Polygonum is a joy. Composed by Celine Barel, it is ostensibly a classic, citrus-herbal cologne, but it’s lifted out of the ordinary thanks to the use of some truly invigorating materials and a lucid, charming drydown that takes you by surprise with its soapy, Badedas-like gentleness. 

Finally, I marked the 40th anniversary of the release of Aramis Tuscany by digging out my circa-2010 bottle of it. A bona fide, suitably hairy-chested cousin of Brut — and its countless, equally hirsute offspring — it is just about as classic as 70s/80s masculines can get, mixing geranium, lavender and woods to project square-jawed, rugged solidity. In this iteration, the drydown is thinner and less mossy than I imagine the original must have been, but it’s still great fun to smell. Come to think of it, I think I may have a mini of the 1984 version somewhere in my stash, so I shall sign off and go hunting for it forthwith. I’ll let you know if I find it. 

Persolaise 

[Review samples provided by the brands in 2024, with the exception of the Aramis, which is from my personal collection.]

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