Dior J’Adore L’Or, Eris Delta Of Venus, L’Artisan Parfumeur Cuir Grenat and other reviews – 2023

Earlier this year, Dior gave us the first bona fide new creation from current in-house perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian (the unexpectedly divisive Dioriviera) and now he’s making his initial mark on the brand’s mainstream range with yet another flanker of J’Adore. I reviewed the new J’Adore L’Or as well as a few other releases in a recent YouTube episode. Here’s a link, followed by a full list of the perfumes covered (with timestamps) and more thoughts on a few of them: Dior J’Adore L’Or, Piguet Rue Du Cirque, Miller Harris Black Datura, L’Artisan Parfumeur Cuir Grenat, Eris Delta Of Venus reviews.

Dior J’Adore L’Or (Francis Kurkdjian) 6:04
Piguet Rue Du Cirque 18:56
Miller Harris Black Datura (Emilie Bouge) 29:29
L’Artisan Parfumeur Cuir Grenat (Christophe Raynaud) 37:36
Eris Delta Of Venus (Antoine Lie) 45:14

Not only have their been several flankers of J’Adore since Calice Becker’s 1999 original, but there have also been a few other L’Ors, as well as many reformulations and tweaks of all the different iterations. So, as is the case with Miss Dior and Dior Homme, it’s currently impossible not to feel confused about what role each version is meant to play within the J’Adore collection. And this new L’Or certainly doesn’t possess a strong enough personality to make its function clear. If you’re going to make a relatively straightforward white floral, then you either need to use truly striking materials or you need add some sort of unexpected twist or flourish to your basic structure. L’Or fulfils neither of these requirements and, consequently, is nothing more than pleasant. 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Cuir Grenat is the Tuscan Leather clone you didn’t know you needed… because you don’t. Miller Harris Black Datura (originally released in 2020, as one viewer helpfully pointed out) attempts to suggest darkness and danger with such a high dose of ambery woods in its base that you genuinely want to stay away from it, which I suspect wasn’t the brand’s intention. And Piguet Rue Du Cirque teases with an intriguing contrast between florals and a mercifully non-sticky praline note, but it doesn’t quite present them with the aplomb you might have hoped for. The highlight of this particular set is the new Eris Delta Of Venus: it sustains its curious, exotic fruit note right through to the end, linking it with sandalwood to conjure an image of some strangely tempting apparition. Insidious, threatening and mesmeric. 

Persolaise

[Reviews based on samples provided by the brands in 2023.]

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