Diptyque L’Eau Papier Review – Fabrice Pellegrin; 2023

[Diptyque L’Eau Papier review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2023.]

In the catalogue of perfume genres, ‘paper’ doesn’t have anywhere near as many entries as, say, rose and lavender. But over the years, there have been some notable attempts to capture its smell in a bottle, with varying success. There was 2012’s Paper Passion, composed by Geza Schoen, as well as 2017’s Byredo Bibliotheque (admittedly, this tried to convey the smell of an entire library) and 2019’s Maison Margiela Whispers In The Library. The latest effort comes to us from Diptyque, courtesy of the talents of Fabrice Pellegrin, and I reviewed it over on YouTube the other day. Here’s a link: Diptyque L’Eau Papier review.

The reason this composition works so much better than any of its predecessors is probably that it goes for the abstract rather than the literal. Pellegrin has wisely put together a haze of ‘whiteness’ (sesame seeds, rice, cedar, powdery mimosa) which successfully evokes an impression of paper (its texture, its starched dryness) rather than its exact smell per se. What’s more, he keeps the volume control at precisely the correct level throughout the scent’s development, ensuring it never rises above ‘discreet’. The result is a haunting, curiously romantic piece of work, that feels very much like the perfumery equivalent of seeing a lover’s skin beneath delicate, translucent fabric. Do seek it out.

Persolaise

—
If you’ve enjoyed this post, please consider supporting my work
by ‘buying me a coffee’ using the panel below.
Thanks very much indeed.

—