It’s that time again: another round-up of my Twitter mini-reviews, covering the period July to September 2015.
Ultra Male from Jean-Paul Gaultier (Francis Kurkdjian; 2015)*
An interesting, edible lavender, with pronounced caramel notes. The fougère enters gourmand territory.
Trésor L’Absolu from Lancôme (2013)**
Sweeter, denser, less dramatic than original. But still, an appealing, musky rose, heavy on vanilla.
Sweeter, denser, less dramatic than original. But still, an appealing, musky rose, heavy on vanilla.
Acqua Di Giò Profumo from Armani (Alberto Morillas; 2015)**
Cucumber freshness over heavy musk base to make it last longer. No effervescence. No sunshine. No zest.
Cucumber freshness over heavy musk base to make it last longer. No effervescence. No sunshine. No zest.
L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme Oceanic Expedition from Issey Miyake (Alberto Morillas; 2015)*
Invigorating, hyper-real yuzu note, followed by familiar aquatics. Citrus peel made of glass.
Quatre from Boucheron (Antoine Maisondieu, Nadège Le Garlantezec & Nathalie Gracia-Cetto; 2015)*
Yet another musky shampoo floral. We don’t need any more. Did Sophia Grojsman realise what she started when she made Calyx?
Inlé from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Compelling minty jasmine-osmanthus, reclining on a lazy Sunday morning, by a table bearing tea & fresh flowers. The brand’s best.
Ilha Do Mel from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2015)*
Coconut. Jasmine. Bright greens. Grass-skirt-wearing, garland-bearing islanders greeting the sun. Well-executed. Cliched.
French Leather from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2014)*
Finely-grated black pepper sprinkled on dusty paperbacks. Hints of dried fig notes. More parchment than leather. Warm.
Finely-grated black pepper sprinkled on dusty paperbacks. Hints of dried fig notes. More parchment than leather. Warm.
Kedu from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2014)*
Sweet leather beneath musky grapefruit and sesame seeds. Not much life in the top notes. Rather one-dimensional.
Sweet leather beneath musky grapefruit and sesame seeds. Not much life in the top notes. Rather one-dimensional.
Sundance from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Curious, if overly quiet, combo of pear and tuberose. A fruity witch or a naughty Snow White? Intriguing.
Curious, if overly quiet, combo of pear and tuberose. A fruity witch or a naughty Snow White? Intriguing.
Siwa from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Soft, sweet, musky shampoo notes, of the sort we’ve encountered countless times before. Not one of the brand’s best efforts.
Soft, sweet, musky shampoo notes, of the sort we’ve encountered countless times before. Not one of the brand’s best efforts.
Jannat from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2008)*
Sparkling, optimistic lemon, which, sadly, loses verve and becomes too synthetic as it develops. Buttery floral drydown.
Sparkling, optimistic lemon, which, sadly, loses verve and becomes too synthetic as it develops. Buttery floral drydown.
Granada from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2011)*
Simplistic, fruity jasmine, lacking distinct facets. Clean, undemanding and unremarkable.
Simplistic, fruity jasmine, lacking distinct facets. Clean, undemanding and unremarkable.
Moon Fever from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2012)*
Segues from grapefruit to salty vetivert in unengaging fashion. Dull.
Segues from grapefruit to salty vetivert in unengaging fashion. Dull.
Irish Leather from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2013)*
Spices and dry iris settle on an ambery drydown. Simplistic and uninvolving.
Spices and dry iris settle on an ambery drydown. Simplistic and uninvolving.
Persolaise
* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author
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Interesting that you mention Memo. I got an extra sample of their Italian Leather with a sample order that I placed. It was the first time that I heard of Memo. I was surprised to find out that there can be a scent with absolutely no citrus notes that give it the sour feel. It is based on green tomato leaf – very strange. Above you used the word "buttery" and that's what I get from it. And not much leather either.
Neva, thanks for your comment. Tomato leaf is an interesting material – super green – often used in conjunction with galbanum, so perhaps that's the effect in Italian Leather.