Persolaise Review: Golden Chypre from Grossmith (perfumer unknown; 2012)

Golden Chypre is an excellent name for this perfume, or at least for the first few stages of its development. A convincingly gilt-edged radiance accompanies the initial citrus notes as they explode off the wearer’s skin: bergamot shines with sunny friendliness; a rich, sweet orange oil brings a joyful, yellow glow. Beneath all this is an equally convincing chypre base, woody and fuzzy in the manner of Amouage‘s Jubilation 25. Opulent exoticism is provided by a strong spice facet, heavy on pepper, cardamom and clove. But towards the very end, the construction loses its way somewhat, and turns into a thin, powdery leather. Of the four Black Label creations from Grossmith, this is probably the best (the Vol De Nuit-inflected Floral Veil is worth trying too) but it doesn’t reach the heights of the 2009 ‘revival’ trio. Still, a very pleasant piece of work.