You asked and I listened. If there was one Top 10 list that my viewers and readers requested more than any other, it was without doubt a rundown of the best vetiver perfumes. So over on YouTube the other day, I gritted my teeth and turned my attention to the pungent root. Here’s a link to the video: Top 10 best vetiver perfumes 2021. For more on the subject, please keep reading.

Here’s a list of the scents covered in the episode, with timestamps:

Guerlain Vetiver 6:50
Hermes Terre D’Hermes 12:15
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver 13:40
The Different Company Sel De Vetiver 17:35
Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire 23:35
Marie Jeanne Vetiver Santal 28:55
Lalique Encre Noire 33:40
Sugandhco Ruh Khus 38:30
Chanel Sycomore 42:40
Hermes Vetiver Tonka 48:19
Francesca Bianchi The Black Knight 51:28

Regular viewers will know that after a broadcast, I usually post what I call a ‘blotter update’: a few words on how the perfumes in question have developed over time. The update for this video went over YouTube’s character limit, so I’ve pasted it below.

As has been pointed out by several people before, vetiver-based scents tend to start resembling each other as they get closer to their drydowns, because the material dominates most other elements in the base. That said, it’s interesting to pick out the points of difference between the compositions on this list.

Perhaps the ones with the least overtly vetiver-like drydowns are The Black Knight (which is the least vetiver-heavy anyway, focusing just as much on leather as on the subject of this video), Hermes Vetiver Tonka (which, on paper, achieves a commendable balance between the vetiver and the fuzzy, hay-and-tobacco qualities of tonka) and Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire (which remains cool, crisp and weight-free).

The Marie Jeanne and the Chanel make an intriguing pair for comparison: they’re both based on a similar idea, but the former opts for a less fussy, more streamlined execution, whereas the latter presents a more layered, haute-couture approach. Both work extremely well in their own way.

Lalique Encre Noire ends in much the same way that it begins: the earthiness of vetiver linked to the velvety spiciness of Cashmeran.

The Tom Ford and the Guerlain are more similar to each other than I remembered, although the former can’t quite match the complexity of the latter. Both maintain a commendable level of citrusy brightness. Grey Vetiver tends towards soapiness, whereas the Guerlain is dryer and more herbal.

Sel De Vetiver remains the most intriguing of the bunch, staying true to the metallic, saline aspects of vetiver right through to the drydown.

Finally, the one that is perhaps my favourite from the list: Terre edt. Yes, it isn’t as vetiver-centric as, say, the Guerlain or the Lalique, but there’s no question the material is the star of the drydown. And in combination with the cedar and the mineralic notes, it produces one of the most distinctive and attractive effects in 21st century perfumery.

A quick word about the khus: in its final stages, it is minty, bright and cooling. Wondrous stuff.

Persolaise

[Samples of Terre D’Hermes, the Tom Ford, Marie Jeanne, Chanel and Francesca Bianchi provided by the brands; the remainder were obtained by me for my personal collection.]


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Top 10 best vetiver perfumes presented by award-winning critic Persolaise 2021
image: Guerlain

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5 thought on “Top 10 Best Vetiver Perfumes 2021”
  1. Thanks, those blotter updates are really useful. So many perfumes get judged on just the head notes by so many people.

    How come no one seems to have mentioned Hiram Green’s Vetiver, which came out this year, and ought to have been included in a discussion of the best vetiver perfumes in 2021. To me, it recalls a very fine Northern Highland malt whisky, smelling of orange peel and raisins, ginger, smoke, peat, and wood, with a light sweetness. I just love it. If you know it, I’d be very interested to know what you think of it. If you don’t yet know it, I’d be interested to hear once you do.

    1. Thanks for the reminder of HG. I have a few of the brand’s samples, but I need to give them more time. I don’t have a sample of the Vetiver, though.

  2. Hi Persolaise, what vetiver fragrances do you recommend for women/does Mme. Persolaise enjoy? I’ve become very fond of the note after frequently ‘borrowing’ the Terre D’hermes EDT , and would like to explore it further. Did you like the Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent?

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