A secluded monastery, somewhere in the Himalayas — where the only sound comes from the snow as it melts in the morning sun, and the air itself is composed of serenity. A romantic, and probably unrealistic image, I know. But it’s what I tried to conjure over on YouTube the other day when I presented my top 10 best sandalwood perfumes. Here’s a link to the video, followed, as always, by a complete list of the scents I covered, with timestamps: Top 10 best sandalwood perfumes.
Hermes Santal Massoia (Jean-Claude Ellena) 5:23
Chanel Bois Des Iles (Ernest Beaux) 14:02
Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee (Bertrand Duchaufour) 19:46
Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo (Lorenzo Villoresi) 23:36
Serge Lutens Santal Blanc (Christopher Sheldrake) 27:36
Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten (Bruno Jovanovic) 31:35
Guerlain Samsara (credited to Jean-Paul Guerlain, Anthony Gerard and Anne-Marie Saget) 36:36
Le Labo Santal 33 (Frank Voelkl) 41:36
Chanel Egoiste (Jacques Polge and Francois Demachy) 46:17
Neela Vermeire Creations Ashoka (Bertrand Duchaufour) 50:27
Tom Ford Santal Blush (Yann Vasnier) 53:07
What struck me about this selection – apart from its heart-quaking beauty – was the variety with which it showed the central sandalwood note being handled. From Ellena’s almost contrarily minimalist take (so quiet, you begin to wonder whether it has something to hide) to Villoresi’s bullish, borderline-aggressive interpretation, via Guerlain’s poetic majesty and Duchaufour’s thoughtful introspection in Ashoka, it served as a reminder that few perfumery ingredients are as versatile, as compelling and as surprising. No wonder so many civilisations across the centuries have considered the stuff to be a gift from the gods themselves.
Persolaise
[Samples of Neela Vermeire Creations, Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle and Tom Ford provided by the brands for review purposes; the remainder were obtained by me.]
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Hello Persolaise As one of your devotees far away in Australia-I am wondering if the Interviews you are conducting in Harrod’s coming up in a week or two will be posted somewhere so someone overseas like me can hear them?. Will they be a podcast somewhere? if they are not filmed & put on YouTube?. Either way I’d love to here them-or failing those 2 options- a good old fashioned transcript posted online would be great too.I hope you have some way for your absent fans to enjoy these enthralling talented Nose’s speak.Pleeeeease🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hi Nadine,
Many thanks for this. As the event is being organised by Guerlain and Harrods, I have no influence over whether it is recorded or broadcast. Usually, these events are ‘in person’ only. However, it may be that someone who attends will choose to write about it.
I have sampled some of the sandalwoods you’ve mentioned Persolaise.
I do remember Lorenzo’s.The opening was a bit bombastic for me.
What did I go with back then instead. Oh, Montale’s Drift Wood or something like that. I wish I had went with Lorenzo’s back then. Why, because I’ve come to appreciate his work. I also sold Drift Wood and Patchouli Leaves from the house.
The Mancera Red Tobacco also went. Though when I wore Red Tobaccco, people enjoyed it from the other side of the room mainly. Seriously!
I still have Lorenzo’s Patchouli, Uomo and Mare Nostrum. I just recently took off the Patchouli from ebay, for I had it up for sale. Why, because I spritzed some on and said, “Oh no, I’m keeping this one. I like Uomo now, alot. Mare Nostrum is ok. The long drydown is nice. I was going to sell his Patchouli because I have a number of patchouli perfumes. I also have a number of sandalwood ones.
I have a number of sandalwood oils. It’s interseting of how vastly different they can be. It depends on the process of extraction, how it’s made, and of course the region.
Ensar sandlawood oils are very good. Even the less expansive ones. I, like Kafkaesque, enjoy a little of spice in mine. I also love the red meat oils, exceptional. I also have 1970’s chips and powder of Mysore Sandalwood from Ensar. The aroma is divine.
Russian Adam’s Santal Galore is also expceptional. It really is. I have a number of his sandalwood oils that a very clean. They were made for the purists in mind. I have one of his others that has a little spice. It’s very nice. I had a sample of mysore sandalwood oil from Rising Phoenix from a number of years back. I wish I had bought it. I do have Mysore oil from the house. It’s good.
I also have a decant of Rising Mysore 2 from Dixit and Zaks. It took time for the perfume to settle and smooth. It’s exceptional now. It kind of reminds me of Geo F Trumpers Sandalwood a bit, of which I also have. Some say Trumpers is like Egoiste. I have not sampled Egoiste. I’ll find a vintage of it and go for it. Rising Mysore 2 is far superior to Trumpers, but I still enjoy Trumpers.
I think I’ll stop here, for I can go on and on about my love for sandalwood.
I think it started because my sister used to date men from India.
When I used to go over to their houses, her boyfrinds liked me, it’s a George Harrison thing, the smell of all the different colognes and perfumes everyone would wear left me happy. Especially the womens make up with those heavily made up eyes and all of the purples and mustard colors they would wear.
Well, I was in Nirvana.
Sorry ffor the grammar. Grammarly doesn’t work here.
best ahead for you Persolaise,
eddie
Eddie, many thanks for this detailed comment. There’s clearly a lot to say about sandalwood!
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