If ever there was a set of videos that highlighted the stark difference between modern perfume releases and those from a few decades ago, it was the one I broadcast the other day, during which I reviewed new releases from Creed and Matiere Premiere, as well as classics from Caron and the much-missed Jean Patou. Here are links to all three videos in the set, followed by timestamps and a few further thoughts: Creed Delphinus and Centaurus reviews — Matiere Premiere extrait (2024) reviews — vintage Caron Yatagan and Jean Patou Joy edt reviews.
Radical Rose 4:57
Crystal Saffron 8:31
Falcon Leather 13:33
Encens Suave 17:40
Santal Austral 21:17
Caron Yatagan (Vincent Marcello) 1:46
Jean Patou Joy (Henri Almeras) 9:10
There’s little I need to add to the Creed and Matiere Premiere videos. The two releases from the former are largely pleasant, but entirely derivative and forgettable, whereas the five from the latter provide more evidence that the charms many others detect in the brand are wholly lost on me. The olibanum note at the core of Encens Suave is attractive, and the heated temperament of Falcon Leather is not devoid of merit, but that’s about as complimentary as I can be about the new quintet.
On the other hand, I couldn’t possibly be complimentary enough about Yatagan (1976) and Joy (1935), but I must temper my enthusiasm because of course the Patou is no longer with us (my blood boils each time I think of this) and the Caron isn’t quite as balanced as it used to be. Thankfully, old bottles can still be found, which means some of us can continue to enjoy these true marvels of olfactory art. Joy is, quite simply, one of the most arresting, romantic, textured florals ever composed: an endless carpet of jasmine and rose, put together with such skill, you’d think it had never been touched by mortal hands. Yatagan is more polarising and perhaps something of an acquired taste, but as an expression of the contradictions at the heart of masculinity — or, to put it another way, as a presentation of the tension between fragility and power — it is second to none.
[All review samples were obtained by me in 2024.]
Persolaise
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