Best Perfumes Of 2020 – So Far

I know, I know — I’ve never done this before. But then, lots of things that have happened this year could be filed under ‘unprecedented.’ And as the last few months have felt like about twelve years rolled into one, I thought it might be fun to step back for a moment, slow down and take stock of some of the more memorable fragrance releases we’ve had since January. Whether any – or all – of the below make it to my final list at the end of December remains to be seen (as do so many other things). But for now, here’s what I think are the best perfumes of 2020… so far.

Dolce & Gabbana Sicily (Nathalie Lorson)

I’m not going to pretend to remember enough about the 2003 original to be able to say how this reissue compares, but I do know that it’s been put together by the same person who gave us the first version – Nathalie Lorson – and that it smells downright gorgeous. Aldehydes, honeysuckle, more than a hint of animalics, jasmine, sandalwood — their combined effect captures that feeling of walking into a dimly-lit antiques shop where you just know you’re going to unearth some treasure. A retro-tastic delight.

Amouage Interlude Black Iris Man (Pierre Negrin)

The brand’s new ‘Creative Experience Officer’, Renaud Salmon, surprised everybody by deciding to make his first release a flanker, but at least he imbued the project with considerable style. Personally, I’ve always loved the original Interlude Man’s wildness: all those angles and corners conjuring a sense of dangerous chaos. Here, Pierre Negrin returns to his own composition and saws off the edges, bringing the agar smoke, incense and leather much closer to each other to form a smaller, but perhaps sharper focal point of disruption. [For my recent interview with Salmon, please click on this link: Amouage Renaud Salmon live interview 2020.]

Aesop Rozu (Barnabe Fillion)

At first sniff, this appears to be a sedate, unassuming rose. But as time passes, it becomes clear that Barnabe Fillion has crafted something altogether more complex. The crimson petals turn to wood. The thorns become green and minty. The roots change themselves into auburn spices. Throughout all this, the rose remains recognisable, while somehow being completely transformed. A haunting, unsettling piece of work.

Serge Lutens Des Clous Pour Une Pelure (Christopher Sheldrake)

Roll me around in orange peel, prick me with cloves and call me the Christmas Fairy. I don’t know whether Uncle Serge was pushing his tongue deep into his cheek when working on this with Christopher Sheldrake, or whether, in his mind, the scent carries some kind of profound, symbolic significance. But I do know that I found it enjoyable and intriguing in equal measure from the moment I tried it. Uncomplicated and carefree.

Escentric Molecules Escentric 05 (Geza Schoen)

Geza Schoen’s fifth entry in his Escentric series focuses on the spicy, velvety, pine-like qualities of Cashmeran, the synthetic musk that forms the backbone of Frederic Malle Dans Tres Bras and Mugler Alien. In his hands, it becomes one of many colours in a painted landscape depicting an isolated Mediterranean villa, with the other shades provided by cypress, juniper, fig and rosemary. A vivid portrait. [For my recent interview with Schoen, please click on this link: Geza Schoen interview 2020.]

The other day, I was delighted to be invited to Max Forti’s YouTube channel to talk about my Best Perfumes Of 2020 list. If you’d like to watch the video in which we discuss our choices, please click on this link: Best Perfumes Of 2020 so far.

Persolaise

—
If you’ve enjoyed this post, please consider supporting my work
by ‘buying me a coffee’ using the panel below.
Thanks very much indeed.

—