This release is a big deal. After all, it’s the first creation by the new in-house perfumer at one of the most prestigious and lucrative brands in the world. But the in-house perfumer in question also happens to be amongst the most lauded and successful scent-makers of his generation. So this has ‘high profile’ written all over it in letters so large, they could easily give the Hollywood sign an inferiority complex. The release I’m talking about is, of course, Christian Dior Dioriviera, composed by Francis Kurkdjian, aka our beloved Captain Kurk. And I reviewed it over on YouTube the other day. Here’s a link: Christian Dior Dioriviera review.
As I said in the video, it’s not surprising that Kurkdjian’s first release for Dior has been placed within the exclusive Collection Privee. These scents are in much more limited distribution than the brand’s other offerings, which perhaps means that with this creation, the perfumer’s Dior aesthetic – if, indeed, he’s planning to cultivate such a thing – can be tested on a smaller, more selected clientele. How they’ll respond to this figgy offering will be fascinating to observe: it is so overbearingly green-metallic, it makes you want to point it in the direction of the Riviera and advise it to spend some time relaxing on the nearest deckchair. I suspect that, given the right marketing, there will be an audience for the stridency of its rose-fig combo. But it’s difficult to shake off the feeling that Dioriviera is a ‘transition’ release: something to fill the time while we await the arrival of a mainstream composition which will give us a true indication of where Kurkdjian plans to take the brand. I hope he doesn’t keep us waiting too long.
Persolaise
[Christian Dior Dioriviera review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2023.]
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You, sir, are masterful in saying plenty while using compressed writing. I was keenly interested by your very accurate choice of words used to describe Captain Kurk: “(…) the most lauded and successful scent-makers of his generation”… ‘scent-maker’, rather than ‘perfumer’. I’ve not been able to connect with Francis K’s creations as much as the many other people seem to appreciate. Perhaps it’s my cultural background or undeveloped and unseasoned nose… but his ‘scents’ are just that: plain, linear and extremely strident, as you’ve well pointed out. There’s an insensibility to creating nuance and inflections that make his scents into actual scent journeys, or perfumes. So I’m left with the same desire as you’ve mentioned: to set these scents out to sail so they can chill a bit and return when they’ve been seasoned and matured. His style seems juvenile, “forever young”; yet I’m still waiting for a perfume that lets me delve more into who he is as a person, and what stories he’s able to convey through scent. For the most part, I’m left with an incomplete and nonsensical theory of a story I can’t ever seem to comprehend. Nevertheless, undeniably successful to the current standards of perfume expectations: linear, strident, and with very little substantial things to say. Then again, that is just my opinion… kudos to all who enjoy his scents and who will continue to support his work.
David, thank you so much for this… and I’m flattered by your faith in my writing, but I don’t think I was especially trying to convey anything by using the term scent-maker.
That said, I get what you mean about some of FK’s creations: they don’t often inspire love.
Thank you for your kind reply, and honored to read back from you. Thank you for correcting me about my interpretation. I apologize for having misconstrued the selection of words; my bias must not be imposed. My faith in you and your writing is solidified by your arduous, sincere and purposeful work. Thank you for taking time to read my random rants! Scented regards!
– D
Hi again David,
Please — you must not feel for one second that you need to apologise in any way. I was just genuinely touched that you took the time to read and consider my words so carefully. And who knows, maybe my subconscious did make me reach for ‘scent-maker’ on this occasion for some deeper reason. But unfortunately, there’s also a prosaic reality behind many of my word choices, mainly related to the fact that there aren’t many synonyms for ‘perfumer’.
And you absolutely did not rant!
Thanks again for leaving such a thoughtful comment.
I thought this was a disappointing first outing from Francis. It smells exactly (literally) like Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver, which isn’t fantastic to begin with but with Dior’s version costs multiple times more.
I quite like AA Nerolia Vetiver, especially in this year’s Harvest form.
[…] Dior gave us the first bona fide new creation from current in-house perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian (the unexpectedly divisive Dioriviera) and now he’s making his initial mark on the brand’s mainstream range with yet another flanker […]