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After Insignia, The Rose and Fanfare, Creative Director Christopher Chong asserts his own taste and style with what could be called more overt clarity in the new Thameen Bohemian Infusion, composed by Maurice Roucel and Alexandra Carlin. I reviewed the fragrance in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, which you can find at this link: Thameen Bohemian Infusion review.

There’s certainly much to enjoy in this composition’s opening. The interplay between the cardamom, grapefruit, myrtle and artemisia throws up the sorts of contrasts that only perfumery can achieve with such startling vividness: mixing hot and cold, spice and herb, high and low. The effect is, as the perfume’s name suggests, convincingly free-spirited and nonconformist — the kind of thing you could imagine Virginia Woolf and her pals wearing with boundary-bending pleasure at some Bloomsbury soiree. Or perhaps it might even have been the scent of Woolf’s own Orlando. But as things progress, they become more decidedly – and disappointingly – ‘masculine’, with the 70s-style patchouli in the base causing the whole to lose the timelessness that’s such a commendable feature of the first act. And in the final stages, when the woody ambers become more prominent, it all becomes a touch too mono-dimensional and boorish. A party at Virginia’s would have stayed daring and indecipherable right through to the end; Bohemian Infusion doesn’t maintain quite the same mystique.

Persolaise

[Thameen Bohemian Infusion review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2023.]


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Thameen Bohemian Infusion review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2023

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