I’m still in extrait mode, so the other day I decided to devote an entire episode of Love At First Scent to some of the most ravishing examples of the form: the treasures held by none other than Chanel. I specifically talked about Cuir De Russie, Bois Des Iles and No. 22 (all originally made by Ernest Beaux) as well as Jacques Polge‘s Coco and the most recent addition to the extrait range, Olivier Polge‘s Coromandel. Here’s a link to the video: Chanel extraits review.
Broadcasting this episode almost made me come to the conclusion that it doesn’t do to surround oneself with quite so much gorgeousness: it’s enough to make you lose your sense of perspective. To think I ended the video by being lukewarm about Coco! To be sure, it isn’t my favourite Chanel, but it is without doubt a laudable achievement compared to the ‘feminine’ wares currently pushed out by most brands.
Then again, total immersion in transcendent beauty is probably no bad thing once in a while. In my case, it served as a reminder – not that I particularly needed one – of why I adore perfume as much as I do. And why I never seem to get tired of thinking about it. Here was Cuir De Russie, making me re-examine it not so much as a leather scent, but as an iris constructed out of strips of the most luxurious suede. Then there was Coromandel, surprising me with quite how much dirt it was managing to smuggle under the banner of the double-C logo. And Bois Des Iles, which on this occasion presented itself as a sort of temple-bound No. 5 without the pronounced aldehydes. And at the other end of the spectrum, No. 22, with its over-exposed aldehydes acting as a stairway to the realms of the angels. Breathtaking creations, one and all. If you’ve never tried them as extraits, make sure you do one day.
Persolaise
[Chanel Cuir De Russie, Coco and No. 22 extrait samples provided by the brand; the remainder are from my personal collection.]
—
If you’ve enjoyed this post, please consider supporting my work
by ‘buying me a coffee’ using the panel below.
Thanks very much indeed.
—
Discover more from
Subscribe to get the latest posts to your email.
In addition to No 5, I also own extraits of Cuir de Russie (sleek), Bois des Iles (ravishing) and No 22 (resplendent).
Bois des Iles is apparently inspired by the Tchaikovsky opera ‘Queen of Spades’.
I am still waiting for the extrait of one of my favourite Exclusifs – 31, Rue Cambon!
Michael
Michael, a Rue Cambon extrait would be fascinating to smell. I’ve also often wondered if Polge could do something with Bel Respiro, but I suspect the very reason why that scent works so beautifully as an edt is that it’s meant to be light and airy; a more concentrated version might just seem ‘wrong’. I wouldn’t be surprised if we see a Sycomore extrait.
Re: Bel Respiro, the EDP version smells markedly different from the EDT, as it eschews the airy lightness and greenness of its predecessor in favour of a herbal scent with more heft and sillage (I was informed that this is due to the addition of rosemary, thyme and sage).
Forgot to mention in my previous comment that I absolutely adore the fruity note in 1932, but the vetiver drydown does not agree with my skin at all.
Michael, yes, the edp definitely doesn’t have quite the same ‘breathless’ quality. I wish they’d kept both in their catalogue.
Thanks again for writing.
[…] little while ago, I broadcast a video on Chanel’s current line-up of extraits. So I thought it only fair to create a similar episode on Dior’s offering. Sadly, the brand […]