Guerlain Habit Rouge, Vetiver & L’Homme Ideal parfums review – Delphine Jelk; 2024

Why entice us with just one scent when three bottles lined up next to each other look so much better in a photo? Perhaps that’s what the Powers That Be at Guerlain were thinking when they decided it was time to increase their masculine range with a trio of ‘parfum’ versions of their most high-profile releases: the classic Vetiver and Habit Rouge, as well as the more recent L’Homme Ideal. I reviewed all three in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, which you can find at this link: Guerlain Habit Rouge, Vetiver and L’Homme Ideal parfums review.

To my great surprise, my favourite from this range didn’t turn out to be Habit Rouge. Much like the ‘extrait’ the brand gave us in 2009, this parfum comes across as slightly cumbersome and lacks the marked contrast between heft and energy which makes the edt one of the greatest compositions of all time. That said, it is vastly superior to most mainstream masculine releases and well worth checking out, especially if you miss the similarly gourmand-esque Dress Code limited edition from 2015.

The standout is Vetiver, for the way in which it remains faithful to the original (the effervescent interplay between the citruses at the top and the darker, earthier hues of the vetiver in the base) while adding a new facet to the tale, in the form of a crisp juniper note. 1950s Vetiver was all about suave tailoring and crisp collars, and to be sure, that sensibility remains intact in this latest iteration. But it also manages to convey the sense that sometimes, just sometimes, when all the elements have been carefully chosen and enough attention has been paid to coherence, the ‘suit with trainers’ look can be just as sophisticated as anything from more formal eras.

Persolaise

[Samples provided by the brand in 2024.]

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