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Rightly or wrongly, most perfumery output is still measured against the standards and aesthetics of French styles. If a scent is considered not to ‘work’ in some way, or perhaps not even to be a perfume at all, this is often because it doesn’t conform to the broad personality determined and perpetuated over the decades by French and French-leaning perfumery schools. Even high-profile ‘American’ scents — for instance, the Lauders, Calvin Kleins and Ralph Laurens — are put together by creators whose skills have been honed by the French tradition. So when someone tries to break into the fragrance scene from outside this world, they’ve got their work cut out for them, because not only do they tend not to have the training that would compel them to make scents of this type — more often than not, they’re not especially interested in receiving such training — but they also have to prove to critics and potential customers that their style could and should legitimately be seen as an alternative form of perfumery.
To read the rest of the review, please click on this link to my Substack: DS & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla, Big Sur Eucalyptus and Black Magenta reviews.
Persolaise
[Review samples provided by the brand in 2024.]
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