Christian Dior Dioriginals showcase review (2026)
Persolaise – This isn’t the sort of thing that happens very often. In fact, it may well be a first. Francis Kurkdjian, current in-house perfumer at Christian Dior, has gone back…
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Estee Lauder Glimmer review (Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo & Jean-Marc Chaillan; 2026)
– In recent years, the situation at Estee Lauder has been rather opaque. Official sales information tends to be difficult to come by, but according to the more trusted sources…
Fitz-James Stuart showcase review (Alberto Morillas; 2026)
– The release of the debut quartet from Fitz-James Stuart highlights the acute creative problem at the heart of a perfume industry that currently sees the release of well over…
The Joy Of Taking Your Time – Thoughts On Slow Perfumery
– By all accounts, back in the 1990s, when it first appeared, Mugler Angel was a flop. However, key figures such as Mugler himself and, crucially, Vera Strubi, believed in…
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Crush Absolu (Olivier Polge; 2026) and ‘new’ No. 5 eau de toilette reviews
If Gabrielle is the Chanel perfume I most frequently forget exists, then Coco Mademoiselle is the one I most struggle to understand. Goodness knows, I’ve smelt it enough times. Since…
The Best Perfumes Of 2026, So Far
For my rundown of the best perfumes of the year so far, please click on this Substack link: the best perfumes of 2026, so far. Persolaise
Guerlain Tabac Sahara, BDK Velvet Tonka extrait, Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder extrait and other reviews – 2026
Please click on the following link to be taken to my Substack reviews of the perfumes below: Guerlain Tabac Sahara, BDK Velvet Tonka extrait, Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder extrait and…
Marc-Antoine Barrois B87.135, Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Cologne Forte, Montblanc Neroli Letters and other reviews – 2026
Please click on this link for my Substack reviews of: Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Cologne Forte; Diptyque Orpheon eau de toilette and new candles; Marc-Antoine Barrois B87.135; Balmain Rose De Soie;…
Eris Mother’s Milk, Gucci Ylang Ambrato, Demo Accords by Pia Long and other reviews – 2026
– Here’s a link to my Substack reviews of Eris Mother’s Milk (Antoine Lie), Gucci Ylang Ambrato (Jean-Christophe Herault), Gucci Lignum Idealis (Alexis Grugeon), Olfiction Lab Editions (Pia Long), the…
Tom Ford Oud Voyager, Guerlain Royal Extract III and other reviews – 2026
– Please click on the link below to be taken to my Substack reviews of the following perfumes: Tom Ford Oud VoyagerGuerlain Royal Extract IIITrudon Midnight Omen, 45° & MystiqueAnforh…
L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Amant, Christian Dior Cuir Saddle and Le Labo Violette 30 reviews – 2026
For reviews of Christian Dior Cuir Saddle, Le Labo Violette 30 and L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Amant please click on this link to my Substack: Christian Dior Cuir Saddle, Le Labo Violette…
Acqua Di Parma Colonia Il Profumo Millesimato, Born To Stand Out Dirty Milk and Stora Skuggan showcase reviews – 2026
For reviews of Acqua Di Parma Colonia Il Profumo Millesimato, Born To Stand Out Dirty Milk and the entire collection from Stora Skuggan, please click on this link to my…
More Matches Made In Heaven – Top 10 Perfumes For Valentine’s Day 2026
For this year’s Valentine’s Day list, I’ve gone back to the library and matched some famous fictional couples with perfumes. Here’s a link to the YouTube video: Perfumes for iconic…
Frederic Malle Contre-Jour review – Annick Menardo; 2026
– For years, the arrival of a Frederic Malle perfume has been a cue for a total nerd-fest. But the brand’s latest release, Contre-Jour, pushes the opportunities for geekery to…
Chanel Gabrielle L’Eau review – Olivier Polge; 2024
– I confess I keep forgetting about the existence of Gabrielle. In my mind, the last high-profile, mainstream, feminine release from Chanel was Coco Mademoiselle. And yet, the Gabrielle line…
The Top 10 Best Perfumes Of 2025
– It’s often people in the most dire situations, with few opportunities to enjoy the finer things in life, who insist that those with the ability to keep creating beauty…
Serge Lutens Bois Roi D’Agalloche, Zurafa, Sidi Bel-Abbes, Tarab and Cracheuses De Flammes reviews (Christopher Sheldrake; 2015, 2020 and 2025)
– Reading between the lines, it would seem that Royaume is the brand’s update of the Section D’Or range, which launched in 2014 to loud protestations about its exorbitant price…
Tauer L’Air Du Desert Marocain Noir, Etat Libre D’Orange Above The Waves, BDK Impadia and other reviews – 2025
Please click on the link below to be taken to my Substack reviews of the following perfumes: BDK ImpadiaMontale Oud SapparotJeroboam BohaFerragamo Sublime LeatherTauer L’Air Du Desert Marocain Noir, Rose…
Jovoy’s Francois Henin On Changing His Brand’s Look & Making New Perfume, Ha Long Bay
– We are under stress. We have many players selling stock. They are discounting. We don’t know where they got the product from. It could be on social networks, it…
Waiting For The Right Time – Christine Nagel On The Creation Of Hermes Barenia Intense
– Some perfumes arrive on the market not at the right time. I have a good example — Wrappings from Clinique. I love this perfume. But it arrived too early.…