We travelled all the way from North Africa to Croatia and a couple of distant constellations in a recent episode of Love At First Scent – via a stop-off at the idiosyncratic universe of Pharrell Williams – with reviews of new releases from Louis Vuitton, Arquiste and Les Indemodables, amongst others. Here’s a link to the video, followed by further thoughts on some of the scents: Louis Vuitton Lovers, Les Indemodables Oranger Sirocco, Arquiste A Grove By The Sea, Memo Cassiopeia Rose, Gucci The Heart Of Leo reviews.

Louis Vuitton Lovers (Jacques Cavallier) 2:49
Gucci The Heart Of Leo (Amandine-Clerc Marie) 17:27
Memo Cassiopeia Rose 28:00
Arquiste A Grove By The Sea (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) 37:08
Les Indemodables Oranger Sirocco (Antoine Lie) 47:37

I realise I risk attracting the ire of the purists amongst you, but I can’t help being intrigued by the Vuitton. There’s something about the unashamedly synthetic nature of its sun-and-suede accord that is compelling — very much like the futuristic, super-utilitarian designs of Patrick Ervell, which I find both enjoyable to look at and borderline frightening. Dehumanising and entirely body-focussed at the same time. Thankfully, towards the drydown, Lovers‘ corporeal leatheriness just about wins.

There’s certainly a stronger sense of humanity in Oranger Sirocco and A Grove By The Sea. But although both scents are unquestionably well-made (and the former reflects Les Indemodables’ devotion to materials of the highest quality) it’s difficult not to find them just a tad unexciting, as though they’re so intent on being note-perfect (orange blossom and cinnamon in the case of Sirocco; figs and herbs in the Arquiste) that they forget to leave room for any surprises. Still, both are worth trying.

Persolaise

[Reviews based on samples provided by the brands in 2024.]


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Louis Vuitton Lovers review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2024

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