In my final instalments of Love At First Scent before the usual summer hibernation, I tied up various loose ends by presenting showcase reviews of a few brands (one of which is the attention-worthy Isabelle Larignon) as well as talking about individual releases from Celine, Puente and Issey Miyake. Here are links to both videos, followed by timestamps and further thoughts on some of the scents: Vyrao & Bibbi showcase reviews — Celine Bois Dormant and Cologne Celeste, Isabelle Larignon Le Flocon De Johann K, Milky Dragon and Bangla Yasaman, Issey Miyake A Drop and A Drop edp fraiche and Puente Chyprelia reviews.
Bibbi The Other Room 10:20
Bibbi Radio Child 15:40
Vyrao Witchy Woo (Lyn Harris) 22:17
Vyrao Sun Rae (Meabh McCurtin) 26:45
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Celine Bois Dormant 3:54
Celine Cologne Celeste 8:59
Isabelle Larignon Le Flocon De Johann K (Isabelle Larignon) 13:40
Isabelle Larignon Milky Dragon (Isabelle Larignon) 21:53
Isabelle Larignon Bangla Yasaman (Isabelle Larignon) 25:25
Issey Miyake A Drop (Anne Ayo) 29:51
Issey Miyake A Drop edp fraiche (Anne Ayo) 33:33
Puente Chyprelia (Eliam Puente) 35:26
As far as Bibbi is concerned, I think I make it perfectly clear in the video that I’m unimpressed by the try-hard, astral plane marketing (although I am curious to try Swimming Pool). On the other hand, the equally dubious publicity schtick behind Vyrao doesn’t detract from the fact that some of their wares possess a commendable simplicity and sincerity, very much in keeping with Lyn Harris’ style.
The scents presented in the second broadcast were much more enjoyable, from the crystalline purity of Celine Cologne Celeste (watch out for that lethal price tag, though) to the snowy purity of Le Flocon De Johann K, via the aqueous purity of Issey Miyake A Drop — three perfumes that present silence, subtlety and restraint in intriguing, different ways.
To my nose, the highlights are Isabelle Larignon Bangla Yasaman and Puente Chyprelia. The first is a glorious love letter to jasmine, full of all the dramas and multi-faceted contrasts that only the best scents in this genre bring out. Smoke, cigarettes, banana, greenness, milkiness, unashamed carnality — they’re all here in a riot of delightful Kolkata boisterousness.
The second is, admittedly, a retro-focussed composition, which means it’s something of an easy sell to yours truly and those of you who follow my work. But it’s also unquestionably delightful — a fruit-inflected chypre of a sort we simply don’t get to smell very often any more. Think Mitsouko with a more pronounced lemon note at the top (and not just any lemon, but a vividly yellow, joy-projecting, soul-enhancing sun-ray of lemon) and you’ll get some sense of how it operates. Mossy, subtly leathery, faintly peachy, it is a luminous wonder, projecting enough modern radiance and brightness to stop it from descending into pastiche. I should also mention that it was made as a ‘single batch’ scent and at the time of writing, it’s already sold out. However, if you like the sound of it, perhaps you should ask Eliam Puente nicely if he’ll consider creating another batch. If he does, I urge you to stick his charming Mitsoucello on your ‘to buy’ list straight away.
Persolaise
[Samples provided by the brands for review purposes in 2024.]
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