There’s something reassuring about the knowledge that Chanel continue to make extraits. It almost doesn’t matter how they smell: just the fact that they exist sends a message that some aspect of the brand – some corner of its creative department – remains committed to the development of this most baroque, most opulent form of perfumery. The latest composition to join the range is Sycomore, following its edt iteration from 2008 and the edp from 2016 (as well as the original, 1930s Ernest Beaux fragrance bearing the same name, but that was probably very different from what we have in the shops today). I reviewed it in a recent YouTube video. Here’s a link: Chanel Sycomore extrait review.
In keeping with the brand’s approach to their other scents, this extrait isn’t merely a more concentrated version of what we’ve had before. Indeed, it marks a new spot on what we can think of as the Sycomore spectrum. The edt is the dryest, most purist expression of the vetiver+sandalwood structure, the edp is a softer, more floral rendition, and now this extrait brings a whisper of sweetness into the mix through the use of a gentle, naturalistic, powdery vanilla note.
Perhaps this is all to do with the target audience. After all, extraits tend to be aimed at women, so Olivier Polge may have been tasked with putting together the most ‘feminine’ variant of Sycomore… and in this day and age, rightly or wrongly, perfumers spell ‘femininity’ through smell by reaching for sugary materials. That said, thank goodness Polge hasn’t overdosed on the calories. Indeed, despite the presence of the vanilla, this is still recognisably Sycomore: a shadowy gaze of scent, akin to a telling glance in film noir. And those who found themselves unable to cope with the extreme vegetal-ness of the edt may well find the extrait almost equally challenging. But fans of the rooty, smoky earthiness of vetiver (who number in their thousands, of course) would do well to seek this out. It brings a fascinating inflection to the Sycomore story and proves there’s always scope for revisiting familiar structures. Well done, Monsieur Polge. Next, please can we have an extrait of Le Lion!
Persolaise
[Chanel Sycomore extrait review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2022.]
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I enjoyed reading that – you have such a nice turn of phrase! “The Sycomore spectrum”, indeed. I’d love that as the title of a novel. Sci-Fi perhaps? But I doubt I’d enjoy the eponymous extrait. I long for the days when femininity was expressed in a more, well, womanly manner. (I am one among the thousands, nevertheless.)
Thank you so much for reading, Sebastian.