There’s no sign of any trouble at the top. The mid to low areas of the perfume market (in terms of price) are still struggling to attract customers — no surprise, given everything that’s currently happening with the cost of living. But up at the higher reaches of the stratosphere, all would appear to be as peachy as ever. So peachy, in fact, that no-one bats a glittering eyelid when a new brand arrives charging over £200 for a 100 ml bottle of edp. Thankfully, the brand in question, Lilanur, has put a substantial quantity of its money where its mouth is. But even so, the rapid increase in fragrance prices is a trend about which we should all be worried and suspicious. That aside, I reviewed Lilanur’s impressive wares in a recent episode of Love At First Scent. Here’s a link: Lilanur brand showcase.
As I said in the broadcast, taken as a whole, this is an impressive and promising debut put together by people who clearly know scent well. Perhaps the perfumes don’t score highly when it comes to innovation, but they mostly make up for this with the quality of their central materials and their convincing naturalness. Highlights are Incarnation (Olivier Cresp’s purring take on unashamedly retro, leathery chypres, with more than a nod to Dolce & Gabbana Sicily) and Rajni Nocturne (a musky, creamy, not overly aggressive tuberose, put together by Clement Gavarry). I remain intrigued by Malli Insolite, in which Honorine Blanc attempts to reframe jasmine by linking it with the mineralic facets of incense. By and large, she’s successful, evoking an image of white petals scattered across a temple floor. Each of the releases is worth smelling, so do seek out the brand’s discovery set if you can.
Persolaise
[Lilanur review based on samples provided by the brand.]
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