Comparisons between perfume and poetry are not uncommon. But it’s in relatively novel fashion that the two art forms come together in Dusita Montri, the latest release from the Paris-based brand, which sees founder Pissara Umavijani naming a creation after her poet father. I reviewed the scent, and a few others, in a recent episode of my YouTube series. Here’s a link: Maison Francis Kurkdjian A La Rose extrait, Dusita Montri, Skandinavisk Kapitel 1, Off-White Paperwork Solution No. 4 reviews.
Of these four, the one most deserving of your attention is unquestionably the Dusita. The Off-White offering, part of a debut quartet, is wearable, but it veers too close to the territory of Le Labo Santal 33 and Tom Ford Santal Blush to be worth seeking out. The Skandinavisk is the best I’ve tried from the brand so far, and it certainly ticks all the right boxes in terms of trying to evoke a wintry, pine-strewn forest floor. But it lacks sufficient personality to be memorable. The extrait of Kurkdjian’s A La Rose opens beautifully – I maintain that the original A La Rose is one of the most gorgeous evocations of the flower in recent years – but sticks a bit too close to the skin, and it doesn’t last nearly as long as one would have hoped.
No — the Dusita is the star here. Complex and difficult to classify – just like the finest poems – it blends floral notes with woods in manner that recalls some of Guerlain’s finest achievements. And the drydown – blending mosses with vetiver and an unexpectedly non-animalic oud – will, I’m sure, turn out to be one of the most sophisticated things I’m going to smell this year.
Persolaise
[Samples provided by the brands.]
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