Are we to believe the rumours? And why are they still just rumours? Why can’t people in the industry be more transparent about what’s going on? I’m referring here to the recent ban on the use of Lyral and Lilial in perfume compositions. That these ubiquitous – and, by all accounts, extremely useful – ingredients are banned is not in dispute: it’s a matter of public record. But true to form, perfume brands are being cagey about which of their scents contain substantial quantities of the stuff and have consequently undergone a major reformulation. What does this have to do with the subject of today’s review? Well, according to the ever-reliable rumour-mill, the reason we now have a new ‘fresh’ version of Terre D’Hermes – dubbed Eau Givree – is that the aforementioned ban has brought about the demise of the previous fresh version: Eau Tres Fraiche. I talked about this latest flanker over on YouTube last week. Here’s a link: Hermes Terre D’Hermes Eau Givree review.
It’s certainly possible that necessity led to the invention of this addition to the Terre stable. However, as I say, I don’t know that for a fact. In terms of its scent profile, Givree is at once a sharper and more shrouded take on the familiar Terre structure, when compared to Eau Tres Fraiche. After you finally manage to peer through the hyperbole in its press release, what you find is a suggestion that, when composing the flanker, Christine Nagel was genuinely trying to grapple with the idea of balancing heat and cold. It’s just the sort of conceptual conundrum I can see her trying to get to grips with. And I’d say she’s succeeded quite admirably.
Eau Givree opens with a bold, razor-edged, peppery citron note, and even though it soon moves to the nutty, cedar-y, vetiver-y, streamlined woodiness we recognise from the original, it places it within an encrustation that is part ice, part lava. An intriguing, highly wearable piece of work. But why can’t it exist alongside Tres Fraiche? Perhaps one day we’ll find out.
Persolaise
[Hermes Terre D’Hermes Eau Givree sample provided by the brand in 2022.]
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Dear Persolaise, this is my first time to leave a comment and a question. I really enjoy your videos, critiques and info on fragrances…especially the classics vintages. My most loved of all, the very beautiful Mitsuko, is why I have a question. I read that Oak Moss was being banned for use in all fragrance compositions. Please tell me this isn’t so. How will they ever make another Chypres with out Oak Moss. I will I live without its seductive aroma. It soothes me so. I can’t remember now where I read that.
I look forward to your next reviews. So very glad I found you. You and Misses be safe. 🦋❤️
Thanks very much for taking the time to write. Yes, the use of oakmoss is severely restricted, I’m afraid.
Hi Persolaise,
I was motivated to purchase H24 based partly on your positive review and the sizable dent you’ve put in your bottle in such a short time. What words can compete with such striking visual! Thank you! I am enjoying it this summer.
I’m intrigued by the intellectual arguments presented by Ms. Nagel’s recent masculine offerings at Hermes. H24 is presented as a harmonious blend of nature and technology. An interesting idea. Terre D’Hermes Eua Givree’s works to strike a balance between hot and cold. Compelling. I can’t wait to try this perfume and see for myself how successfully the work makes the argument.
I’m eager to see what else in the works for Hermes and Ms. Nagel. As excited as I am to explore the work of perfumer willing to express intellectually stimulating ideas with perfume, I’m even more excited that an iconic French fashion house is using actual ideas and concepts to market perfume to a masculine audience.
Refreshing!
Enjoy your summer break, Persolaise!
Thank you so much for writing. I’m pleased that the number of people enjoying H24 is growing.