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My spice tray could never be without cardamom: there is something extraordinarily compelling, almost moving, about the way the little pods manage to combine woody, nutty, citrusy facets with a sense of both hot and cold. So I was intrigued to discover what Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk have done with the material in the brand new Guerlain Epices Exquises, part of the Absolus D’Orient collection. I reviewed the release in a recent episode of Love At First Scent. Here’s a link: Guerlain Epices Exquises review.

As I say in the broadcast, the opening of this composition is an absolute delight: coffee and cardamom balanced in the most gracious, welcoming way imaginable. A true reflection of the Arabian hospitality that reportedly inspired the fragrance. It is a slight shame the effect isn’t sustained for a longer period of time, but at least it doesn’t descend into the hissing snake-pit of synthetic sandalwood which is the final destination of far too many similar pieces of work. While it lasts, it’s a real treat. And I’d much rather find myself asking for more than screaming, “Please make it stop!”

Persolaise

[Guerlain Epices Exquises review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2022.]


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Guerlain Epices Exquises review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2022

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