More Parfum D’Empire, Diorella and Frederic Malle Discontinuations – Skin Time July 2021

Parfum D’Empire

This month saw the continuation of my adventure with Parfum D’Empire** (see Skin Time June 2021), and if anything, I am now more impressed than I was with the brand a few weeks ago. In all the compositions I’ve tried so far, even those which don’t speak to my own tastes, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato displays tremendous attention to detail and a commitment to ensuring that each of his perfumes is a thought-provoking, creative, engaging take on the genre it represents. A case in point is Tabac Tabou, which must surely be one of the finest tobacco scents available at the moment. Green, animalic, hay-like, sweet, honeyed: it is almost overflowing with lust, sending out unashamedly carnal messages in every direction.

In a similar vein is Ambre Russe, which revisits the familiar, much-loved amber structure (think: Emeraude, Shalimar, Ambre Sultan) and injects it with a dangerous, almost unsavoury, yet ultimately seductive, louche quality. The air of ‘alluring highwayman’ probably stems from the use of boozy notes, which add intrigue to the amber core in the same way that the dry herbs do in Ambre Sultan. Consider me waylaid and captured.

There is so much more to be said about this house’s wares, but I must remain succinct. Azemour Les Orangers is all tree nymphs and sprites, weaving a lovely bitter orange through clean, green, cologne-style herbs. Aziyade offers its own take on Bois De Violette, with a hefty dose of cumin bringing sweaty fleshiness to the pot pourri mix of cedar, dates and cinnamon. Corsica Furiosa has no trouble taking its place next to the greatest green scents released this century, with its clear-sighted, assertive galbanum only just giving in to the softening effect of jasmine. Eau Suave enjoys playing with hairy-chested, rose-and-patchouli codes, unashamedly revelling in its retro vibe. 

Shall I continue? Acqua Di Scandola may well be the only marine scent I’ve smelt in the last few years which hasn’t made me question the point of marine scents. There’s certainly something calone-like at play in its composition, but through an ingenious use of heaven-knows-what, it succeeds in making the salt-seaweed-and-sand vibe almost completely convincing. Quite a feat. Iskander is the brand’s all-out citrus entry: a sharp, gleaming lemon, edged with bitter tarragon and cedar.

And finally we have the much-lauded Le Cri. This one’s an oddity, and I mean that as a high compliment. In terms of structure, it’s an aldehydic rose-iris. But in terms of how it manifests itself in the air, it feels like an olfactory shadow of the ghosts of Chanel No. 5 and Frederic Malle Iris Poudre. At its heart lies an indescribably haunting quality. Yes, as its name suggests, it is very much like a scream, but of a sort channelled through another place and time: a muted cry from a distant locale.

Dior Diorella

Speaking of other times and locations, in recent weeks, I’ve taken to wearing the current(-ish?) formulation of Dior Diorella*. I have no doubt that many will claim this version has nothing on the original; and they may well be right. But taken at face value, the sparkle of that citrus-jasmine combo is nothing short of irresistible: perhaps the most joyful expression of a perfect summer afternoon ever squeezed into a bottle.

Hermes
Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

The Diorella desire had also led me to reach for Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil**. I have written on more than one occasion about how much I adore this Jean-Claude Ellena take on fruit and incense. But praise is always worth repeating. So let me say it again: if you’re ever on the lookout for a perfume that plays the summer card with nonchalant finesse but never succumbs to citrus cliches, you have to seek this one out. I look forward to enjoying it throughout August.

Frederic Malle Discontinuations

Finally, I found out a little while ago that Frederic Malle have allegedly carried out their first official discontinuations. I say ‘allegedly’ because I haven’t received this news directly from the brand, but it is from a reliable source, and I’m told it was announced on the brand’s Facebook page. It would seem the two victims are Dries Van Noten and Superstitious (which was a collaboration with the late Alber Elbaz). I wouldn’t be surprised if brand conflicts were behind this decision. When Malle released the two scents, he was an independent player, but now that he’s part of the Lauder empire, it can’t be easy for him to pal up with other companies. If the news is true, I shall be very sorry to see the two scents go, especially DVN, which must be one of the most delicious, intriguing, snuggle-worthy sandalwood compositions of the last few years. If you love it as much as I do, I guess now is the time to stock up.

Persolaise

* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by me

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