It would be interesting to find out if Francois Demachy is a fan of Knize Ten. He certainly wouldn’t be the only one: the 1924 classic has enthralled and inspired several perfumers over the years. But Demachy seems especially interested in the scent’s clever contrast between a tart, almost garish berry note at the top and suave leathers in the base. He played around with the structure in 2014 for Acqua Di Parma Colonia Leather and now he visits it again for the same brand in Oud & Spice.
Once more, we have a sharp raspberry opening, but here the leather role is taken up by an oud note, as though Knize Ten has been propelled a few thousands miles east to the shores of Jumeirah Beach. Bridging this journey is a souq-ful of spices – mainly pepper, cloves and cinnamon – as well as a compelling sense of unease.
Acqua Di Parma have long made sophisticated nonchalance their thing: breezy scents for a breezy lifestyle. But they’re to be commended for trying something different here. Engaging though Oud & Spice is, there’s a shadow at its core that comes across as a tiny bit frightening: a feeling that you can’t fully relax in its presence, because you’re never sure when it’s going to pounce. A glow of seductive danger.
Persolaise
[Acqua Di Parma Oud & Spice review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2021]
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