Well, this turned out to be a bit of a surprise. And that’s not meant as a compliment. When I discovered that Serge Lutens Perilleusement Votre – the latest addition to the Gratte-Ciel range, with its slim black bottles and vertiginous price tags – was an oud-rose combo, I suspected that it might veer into territories other brands had visited before. But I wasn’t prepared for it to be quite so utterly uninterested in finding even a tiny stretch of pathway that hasn’t been trampled several times over by countless feet.
Sadly, this is the same oud-rose scent you’ve encountered many times, from the likes of Montale, Atelier Cologne and countless mainstream houses. It’s the very same one that places the central accord next to saffron and leather. The one that Middle Eastern aficionados have been enjoying for a very long time indeed. To be sure, it’s well executed here, but it brings nothing new to the structure.
The only aspect of its composition that intrigues me is the name. Why ‘perilously yours’, I wonder? Is it because Uncle Serge realises that, coming from him, a lack of originality is dangerous? Does he know that, by presenting us with this cliche, he runs the risk of losing our trust? He needn’t worry quite yet, especially not when several of his other recent releases have been praiseworthy. But considering that his was one of the final brands to jump on the agar bandwagon, it’s difficult not to see this as little more than giving in to the temptation of dirhams and riyals. I suppose everyone needs their bread and butter. Or do I mean pitta and labneh?
Persolaise
[Serge Lutens Perilleusement Votre review based on a sample of eau de parfum obtained by me in 2020.]
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