A little while ago, I published a post bemoaning the fact that many new perfume releases aimed at young women don’t treat their target audience with the intelligence they deserve. They tend to be dull, safe and patronising. But I didn’t want to leave the subject on a negative note. Surely, I told myself, even though there is a great deal of dross being heaped onto the market, there must be a few modern compositions that manage to capture some facets of 21st century femininity without resorting to cliches.
Like every tough mission, this one had to have a few rules. Apart from being suited to younger women, the perfumes to be included in my final selection had to be:
relatively easy to find – no obscure creations from little-known brands whose wares can be purchased only from a single website
fairly new – nothing released before 2013
reasonably affordable – they would have to be available in some form or size for no more than £60 per bottle
It’s the colours of Twilly that have captured Maneesha’s imagination: the fizzing yellows of the ginger, the blood-soaked vermillions of the tuberose, the almost translucent beiges of the sandalwood. They bring a sparkle to her day and a smile to her face.
Although it’s undeniably fruity – lots of cherries and redcurrants – there’s also a compelling, shiny, plastic-like note in Le Rouge Gloss which Nicola just can’t stop sniffing. It’s like mixing danger with cuddliness – a combo she’s always found irresistible.
Verity finds numbers fascinating: she never grows tired of trying to work them out. And she views the clever paradoxes at the core of Angel Muse like a sort of mathematical puzzle. The pink pepper clashing with the sweetness. The hazelnut aspect floating over the whipped cream. The cocoa veering towards the patchouli, and then shifting away from it. They keep her thoughts occupied for hours.
Vanilla, rose and musks make this perfume as gourmand as a huge bowl of chocolate mousse – a fact about which Kemi has no complaints whatsoever – but the inclusion of a dry, tannin-like, blueberry facet gives it a touch of sophistication which raises it above the scents of her teenage years.
Celine’s idea of heaven is feeling the sun on her body. The heat, the smell, the colour: she can never resist their very intimate, life-giving power. With its tropical tuberose, its orange-inflected bitterness and its lick of vanilla in the base, Orchid Soleil is her note-perfect dose of sunshine in a bottle. Sensuous, languid and skin-caressing.
Gosia loves cologne-style scents, so she appreciates the glass-like cleanliness of Indelebile: that neon-bright explosion of lemon at the top. But she finds the touches of naughtiness intriguing too. The narcissus, the orange blossom, the musks. They add a weight that she doesn’t normally find in other colognes.
If she can wrong-foot people with some aspect of her appearance – her shoes, her make-up, her clothes – Shannon feels she’s scored a personal victory. That’s why her scent of choice is Blackpepper: the freshly-ground tornado of spice at the start never fails to get a reaction from everyone around her. And the fact that the effect lasts for hours is an added bonus.
Ambareen’s idea of home is an entirely urban landscape: steel, glass and concrete. She is thrilled by its unpredictability, its shifting scale, its mix of natural and artificial colours. For her, Kerbside Violet is a flawless distillation of the urban soul: a gritty pavement on the one hand, a clutch of grinning violets on the other.
Charlotte is happiest when she’s above the ground, either soaring over rooftops or looking down at a theatre stage. There’s something about Eau De Lumiere’s effervescent presentation of rose with jasmine and musks which seems to echo the thrill of seeing the world spread out beneath her feet, ready for her gentle footsteps.
As someone who gains pleasure from gentle, precise, respectful repetition, Alessandra finds much to admire in L’Eau Bleue. Its lily of the valley heart – placed upon restrained, subtle woods – pays homage to the past whilst conveying a modern, limpid transparency. That’s the sort of balance Alessandra tries to achieve in all aspects of her life.
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Do young women like roses? La Fille de Berlin is sublime.
Kerbside Violet is a terrific choice, plan to get it soon.
Well, they certainly *should* like roses. Thanks for the comment.
This post really made me smile.
That’s good to know. Thanks so much for reading!
What an insprirational list. I wonder, what do the 20 something gents – who do mind their olfactive wardrobe – wear and what personalities do you imagine? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Best wishes from munich
A 20 something 😉
Yannick, thank you so much for this. I’ve been thinking about writing a men’s version for ages, but I keep getting sidetracked.
PS: Gosia is my favorite – personality plus scentwise. She sounds so cool – I’d love to meet her!
Ha! Maybe one day you will!
Shannon for parliament! I wish our MPs would set up girl’s schools in Kalkutta.
This list is real fun! I am looking forward to finding more of your sparkling creativity on these pages.
I somehow identify with the antique pipe collecting violet lover… and I wonder if Charlotte has been inspired by someone we all know and love 😉
Poupée by Rochas was released earlier than these perfumes. I consider it a hidden gem and wear it myself besides the fact that I am beyond the targeted age group.
Thanks for writing, Heinke.