According to his exhilarating account of the creation of his first scent (click here to read it), Richard E Grant was advised to aim for a polarising composition. Nothing wishy-washy: people had to either love it or hate it. You can detect the fruits of that suggestion in the finished fragrance. Although Jack opens with a collection of materials familiar from most cologne-like releases (lemon, lime, herbs) it quickly moves into bolder territory: grapefruit*.
The material needs careful handling: a tiny amount is sufficient to transform everything within a 3-mile radius into an acidic sneer. Few brands have dared to place it within the foreground of their creations. Guerlain and Hermès pulled off the trick with remarkable success in Pamplelune and Eau De Pamplemousse Rose, respectively; Penhaligon’s performed less favourably with Esprit Du Roi. Now, IFF‘s Aliénor Massenet has a go, but instead of downplaying the ingredient’s spikier features, she tries to transform them into a virtue.
** As I was very critical of the cannabis note in Kilian’s Smoke For The Soul, I feel compelled to explain why I haven’t been equally damning here. In the Kilian, the marijuana and all its conceptual trappings are used heavy-handedly as a means of conveying a pretentious, unconvincing air of mystique and pseudo-spirituality. In Jack, the note’s inclusion is low-key, matter-of-fact and in keeping with the brand’s quietly eccentric disposition, hence my willingness to accept it.
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