I know, I know, it was only a few weeks ago that I vowed never again to review any scent with ‘oud’ in its name, and here I am, going back on my word. But you see the problem is that: a) there are more and more passengers hopping onto the oud-y magic carpet ride every week and b) a few of them do actually make an attempt to say something new in what has become an Arabian tale filled with so many cliches, it’ll soon force Sheherazade to pop out of her grave and scare the civet out of every perfumer in the Western hemisphere. The latest effort comes from Comme Des Garçons, which immediately makes it more attention-worthy, given the brand’s philosophy (not much in evidence lately, I grant you) of bringing innovation to the mainstream.
Antoine Maisondieu‘s Wonderoud takes as its starting point 2010’s Wonderwood, a fragrance which aimed to focus only on wood notes and, as a result, suffered from a lack of contrasts in its composition. Wonderoud takes the same idea and injects – you guessed it – a touch of oud into the mix. I would be very surprised if any proof ever emerged that this stuff contains meaningful quantities of real agarwood oil, but then surely, we’ve all gone past expecting ‘oud’ scents to contain real oud. As Frederic Malle said recently, ‘oud’ has now become an abstraction, in the same way that the notion of an oriental perfume is an abstraction. I would also defy anyone to claim there’s anything especially original about the olfactory profile of this composition: it takes the ‘oud’ (probably a mixture of patchouli, cypriol, lab-made castoreum and various other concoctions) and places it alongside vetivert, cedar, musks and the synthetic sandalwoods (including a Givaudan invention called Pashminol) we’ve now come to expect from almost every faux-Middle Eastern masculine. But despite these drawbacks, I’d assert that Wonderoud possesses two attributes worth mentioning.
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