In the catalogue of olfactory families, there’s a sub-set of florals that do everything they should with no unnecessary fanfare. They’re clever without being show-offs. They display excellent tenacity without any stickiness. They smell familiar without descending into cliches. The latest addition to this eternally happy category is Peoneve.
Based largely around a special peony reconstruction (obtained through headspace technology), Olivier Cresp’s creation for Penhaligon’s brings together green notes, a hint of marine breezes (don’t worry: there’s no calone overload here), ginger, rose and an elegant tea facet in a soliflore which is as enjoyable as it is undemanding. Pleasant freshness is difficult to evoke without resorting to predictable citruses or herbs, but Cresp’s expert control of his craft ensures that this charming piece of work never becomes boring or trite. What’s more, the presence of ambroxan in its base pulls its distinctively English, Pimms-in-the-park sensibility straight into the 21st century. The scent may have Cath Kidston aficionados in its sights, but somehow it never becomes totally frivolous.
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In brief… Sepia has enjoyed a great deal of praise in the blogosphere. It’s certainly an interesting composition, mixing razor-edged citruses with tobacco, cedar and Mandy Aftel‘s signature ‘mossy undergrowth’ accord. As far as evocations of autumnal evenings go, it’s very convincing, but personally, I prefer Secret Garden. For a start, it doesn’t display the weak tenacity about which Aftel pre-warns everyone who wears her all-natural work for the first time; on my skin, it lasted for several hours. More importantly, it paints an enchanting, fairy-tale picture of an enclosure in which petals drip vanilla and raspberry juice, bees carry tiny balls of marzipan on their backs and blades of grass burst into green powder whenever someone steps on them. Meanwhile, beneath everything, the damp, heavy soil thrums with wisdom.
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Thank you for these lovely reviews of Secret Garden and Sepia – I’m delighted by such inspired writing about my work!
Mandy
Mandy, please don't mention it.