Guerlain Shalimar Millesime Vanilla Planifolia, Celine Reptile, Ånd Får reviews

In my latest episode of Love At First Scent over on YouTube, I talked about last year’s limited edition of Guerlain Shalimar (dubbed: Millesime Vanilla Planifolia) as well releases from Celine, And, Maison Rebatchi and Confessions Of A Rebel. Here’s a link to the video: Guerlain Shalimar Millesime Vanilla Planifolia review (and others). And for the complete list of scents (with time stamps) as well as further thoughts on them, please keep reading.

Guerlain Shalimar Millesime
Vanilla Planifolia 3:20
And Far 16:52
Celine Reptile 27:03
Maison Rebatchi
Joyeux Osmanthe and Feu Patchouli 38:45
Confessions Of A Rebel
F*ck Mondays and Almost Single 49:25

The usual blotter update proved too long for YouTube’s video description character limit, so I’ve published it here instead.

In terms of its actual scent, Shalimar Millesime (credited to both Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk; 2021) dries down in the way you’d expect: a sweet-pastry vanilla contrasted with the smoky leatheriness of labdanum. But what makes it interesting is its level of diffusiveness. Although the scent is unquestionably present, it’s also on the quiet side, which, as I said in the broadcast, makes this an intriguingly restrained take on the classic. Perhaps useful for those (rare?) times when you want to *whisper* Shalimar rather than shout it. As someone else pointed out, it’s also interesting to view it as a response to Chanel Le Lion, as well as an attempt to update the scent for modern tastes. I gather it fared well at the tills, so perhaps we’ll see it return to the shops before too long

And Far (Simon Constantine; 2022) loses its way ever so slightly towards the final stages of its development: the seams between the different elements begin to show. But this is a minor criticism of a piece of work that remains convincing, cheerful and smile-inducing at all times. It’s reassuring to know that not all gourmands have to be shunned.

I know Celine Reptile (2019) has many detractors, but I’m very drawn to it — particularly to its haunting, indescribable oddness. At times it feels as though it has vanished, but then at others I notice it’s responsible for the strange, powdery, part-comforting, part-threatening smell that fills every room in which I place the blotter. I’m beginning to think more and more that it’s almost like Guerlain Habit Rouge without the sweetness: a sweep of leather, scattered across an enticing, yet treacherous landscape.

The two Maison Rebatchi scents stay very much as they were during the broadcast. Joyeux Osmanthe (Maurice Roucel; 2019) remains on the side of dryness – occasionally presenting an unexpected tuberose vibe – while Feu Patchouli (Bertrand Duchaufour; 2019) is firmly (and rather disappointingly) rooted in the style of late 1970s masculines.

Finally, F*ck Mondays (2020) and Almost Single (2019) are hardly worth mentioning here: dull, uninspired concoctions with the most cynical, off-putting of drydowns — thin, strident woods and boorish musks. Stay away.

Persolaise

[Samples of Maison Rebatchi, Confessions Of A Rebel and And provided by the brands; the remainder were obtained by me.]

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