Best Perfumes Of The Decade 2010-2019 part 1

And in a flash, ten years went by. A period in which the whole world was turned upside down, yet many things didn’t change. People came together, while others became more divided than ever. Attitudes moved forward in some areas, while regressing in others. In other words: as rich and varied and unpredictable a landscape as that of all times. But I don’t intend to dwell on such musings here: this is a post about the best perfumes of the decade, so that is what I shall stick to.

I also don’t want to indulge in a lengthy preamble, because I suspect you’ve all come here just for the list. But I can’t let this opportunity go by without a few glances at the big picture.

Taking up a large space in the foreground of a fairly busy canvas is oud. But you didn’t need me to tell you that. The material – be it in natural or synthetic form – came into its own during this decade, to the extent that there are now almost no fragrance brands that don’t feature an oud scent in their line-up. In many cases, each new oud creation was merely a case of jumping on the bandwagon. But some of them were genuinely commendable achievements, tackling the material’s unique odour profile in brave and unusual ways.

Perhaps equally prominent – at least as far as the mainstream is concerned – is the fruity sugar bomb. Indeed, for a while it felt as though you couldn’t take five paces in a department store without being assaulted by a caramelised patchouli attached to various strawberries, peaches and blackcurrants. Thankfully, the appetite for these monstrosities appears to have abated, which means we can now appreciate the few stand-outs in this calorific genre.

If sweets are heading in a downward trajectory, then abrasive, ambery woods are on the rise. Their crass personality has muscled its way into countless masculine releases, raising all sorts of interesting questions about identity crises and a polarisation of gender codes. Personally, I’ll be glad to see the back of them, but I don’t think they’ll be leaving us any time soon.

The independent sector went from a phase of tremendous excitement at the start of the decade to a more reactionary, fearful mode, choosing to play it safe as several names were bought up by multi-nationals and the retail sector stagnated. Indeed, it’s no surprise that many of the ‘niche’ perfumes on my list are from 2010 to 2015, rather than the second half of the decade.

But perhaps my overriding impression of the last ten years is that it produced so much beauty. Yes, there was tons of dross. How could there not have been? The Basenotes database reckons there were more than 19,000 (!) perfumes released during the decade, so it stands to reason that most of them fell into the category of forgettable plonk. But we were also treated to many astonishing creations of olfactory art, pieces of work that either shocked us with their innovation or impressed us with the ways in which they returned to classic forms. As a result, this list wasn’t easy to put together – and it goes without saying that it can’t be definitive – but every single scent on it is special and praiseworthy in a way that pulls it out of the realms of the ordinary and nudges it in the direction of the timeless.

So, without further delay, here we go… part 1 of my list of the best perfumes of the decade, 2010-2019. [The perfumes are in no particular order… apart from the first one. Links are to the original reviews that appeared here on Persolaise.com.]

Enjoy!

Frederic Malle Portrait Of A Lady – Dominique Ropion; 2010

What can I say? If there’s one perfume that defines the decade for me, it is this: Dominique Ropion’s incomparably magisterial homage to rose, incense and patchouli. Worthy of the greatest respect and admiration, it has deservedly taken its place amongst the greats, and spawned several inferior imitators. An awe-inspiring masterpiece. 

Ulrich Lang Apsu – 2016 

I do wish Lang revealed the identities of his perfumers, because I would love to find out who composed this green marvel. But until that happens, I shall have to content myself with enjoying its superb take on aqueous, breezy freshness, crackling with leafy, peppery vitality. It’s a hard life. 

Christian Dior Leather Oud – Francois Demachy; 2010

Many of the debut scents in Dior’s successful high-end collection have been discontinued. But this one is still with us, and rightly so. Fiery, tempestuous and passionate, its handling of cypriol, leather and a whole souq-ful of spices was easily one of the decade’s most memorably temperature-raising creations. 

Comme Des Garcons Blackpepper – Antoine Maisondieu; 2016

In itself, the technical feat is worthy of merit: using an ingenious cocktail of woods and musks (no doubt formulated with the benefit of his many years of experience) Antoine Maisondieu managed to create a pepper scent that was both photo-real and long-lasting. The fact that he also made it a joy to wear lifted it onto an even higher plane. The pepper grinder that just keeps giving. 

Amouage Opus V – 2011

The passage of time has allowed me to appreciate the beauty of Opus V. Not that I’ve had much choice! Madame Persolaise has added it to her ‘core wardrobe’ and its personality is so forceful, that eventually you can’t help but be won over by its distinctive combo of iris with rough-edged woods and oud. A true original. 

Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee – Bertrand Duchaufour; 2011

Although it’s filled to near-bursting point with all the colours, contrasts and vitality of India – incense, jasmine, sandalwood, cardamom, cinnamon – Trayee is never anything less than perfectly balanced. An astonishing debut from one of the best new brands of the decade and quite possibly one of Duchaufour’s finest ever creations. 

Etat Libre D’Orange The Afternoon Of A Faun – Ralf Schwieger; 2012

A live Nijinsky performance is something about which I can only dream. But I’m brought several steps closer to what must have been the artery-filling reality of the experience by Ralph Schwieger’s extraordinary piece of work: a true olfactory ballet of labdanum, immortelle, rose, jasmine and patchouli. Like a satyr caught in the frenzy of dance, it glistens with both elegance and sweat. Genius. 

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour Le Soir – Francis Kurkdjian; 2010

Although it didn’t sell as well as some of us might have wanted it to, this debauched enchanter – demonically full of honey, incense, musks and an almost comical dose of civet – became one of the decade’s most beloved pieces of work within the scent community. The devil does not wear Prada: he most definitely wears this!

Le Labo Santal 33 – Frank Voelkl; 2011

Not even an ex-colleague’s (accurate!) complaint that this smells of steamed dill was enough to stop me from wearing Voelkl’s incendiary take on bonfires, thick smoke and baked earth. I’m aware that many don’t understand the fuss around it, but the fact that this has become something of a cult favourite proves that, once detected, its attractiveness is hard to resist. 

Arquiste Anima Dulcis – Rodrigo Flores-Roux & Yann Vasnier; 2011 

Inspired by seventeenth century Mexican nuns cooking up some chilli-infused cocoa (yes, really!) this spicy, leathery, vanillic trouble-maker sways its burning loins right into territories that should have been avoided by any self-respecting convent-dwellers. From which I can only conclude that their chocolate must have been the most heavenly – and the most sinful – concoction ever poured into a cup.

Prada Candy – Daniela Andrier; 2011

In a decade that saw brands reaching for the ‘fruit and sugar’ recipe with depressing frequency, Daniela Andrier’s Candy proved that sweetness and brains aren’t mutually exclusive. She took caramel notes and burnt woods, and whipped them into a huge base of musks to give us a piece of work that remains as charming as when it was first released. 

Tauer Orange Star – Andy Tauer; 2010

Perhaps one of Tauer’s most relaxed creations, Orange Star revels in sheer enjoyment with its uncomplicated – but never simplistic – presentation of edible citruses over woods and amber. An endless smile of a scent. 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville A L’Aube – Bertrand Duchaufour; 2012

Duchaufour brought all his skills and experience to the fore in this haunting, heart-breaking and yet ultimately life-affirming take on orange blossom. Surrounded by cigarette smoke, lavender and cologne herbs, the central note feels as though it’s a ghost from your past pulling you into the unknown realms of your future. Intoxicating.

Hermes Cuir D’Ange – Jean-Claude Ellena; 2014

In one of his final compositions for Hermès, Jean-Claude Ellena expanded the wings of his usual, open-sky style, but also rooted it to the ground with sturdy legs, mixing the most delicate powdery notes with oily tannery facets to produce an angel that was gorgeous and grubby in equal measure.  

Olfactive Studio Panorama – Clement Gavarry; 2015

Wasabi, electric greens and a dimly-lit myrrh come to sparkling, jagged-edged life in this neon-lit composition inspired by the dividing line between the urban and the rural. It shouldn’t work, but it does. Splendidly. 

Naomi Goodsir Nuit De Bakelite – Isabelle Doyen; 2017

Isabelle Doyen poured new life into tuberose in a wholly unexpected way: by giving it a smile. Underlining the flower’s herbal aspects, its velvety creaminess and its open-eyed greenness, she put together a hypnotically three-dimensional composition that managed to be both assertive and approachable at the same time. 

Mugler Womanity – Fabrice Pellegrin; 2010

It may no longer be with us – personally, I think the silly name has to take at least some of the blame for its demise – but there’s no question that Womanity was one of the strangest, boldest releases from a mainstream brand this decade. Sappy fig. Seaweedy caviar notes. Metallic greens. Their combination was as perplexing as it sounds. But on some people, it was edgy, ballsy and unforgettable. 

Chanel Boy – Olivier Polge; 2016

Olivier Polge indulged in his beloved gender-bending game with this ‘identity fluid fougere’ — lavender, herbs and powdery facets placed next to each other in neat, decorous order, with the volume turned down to ‘discreet’. The soul of elegance. 

Lush The Smell Of Freedom – Simon Constantine; 2010

The energy of cologne ingredients links arms with iris, sandalwood and a hint of oud to deliver a convincing, almost heartbreaking statement on the life-enhancing power of liberty and the bleak despair that comes with its absence. Always fascinating to wear.

Hermes Galop D’Hermes – Christine Nagel; 2016 

When Christine Nagel took over from Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermes, she did so with characteristic elegance. And perhaps the most dignified of the first scents she made for the house is Galop — a familiar idea (rose + leather) executed with seamless finesse. 

Please make sure you come back soon for part 2, where I’ll be asking you to nominate your own best perfumes of the decade. Stay tuned…

Part 2 has now been published; please click here to read it.

Persolaise

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