An unusual cup of tea was on offer in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, in the form of the new Akro Infuse (Olivier Cresp). In the same broadcast, I talked about the intriguing Rendez-Vous, composed by Antoine Lie, after which I presented a showcase review of a brand that doesn’t get anywhere near the attention it deserves from me, Parfum D’Empire, all of whose wares are created by its owner-founder, Marc-Antoine Corticchiatio. Here’s a link to both videos, followed by further thoughts on some of the perfumes: Akro Infuse, Rendez-Vous, BDK 312 Saint-Honore, Liquides Imaginaires Ame Du Coeur reviews — Parfum D’Empire showcase review.
Liquides Imaginaires Ame Du Coeur (Louise Turner) 3:20
BDK 312 Saint-Honore (Alexandra Carlin) 12:25
Rendez-Vous! (Antoine Lie) 21:21
Akro Infuse (Olivier Cresp) 32:32
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Ruade 5:49
Equistrius 10:09
Yuzu Fou 13:25
Salute! 18:42
3 Fleurs 23:25
Mal-Aime 27:30
Immortelle Corse 31:39
Eau De Gloire 35:41
The folks at Akro have made a wise decision to steer away from the ‘vices and addictions’ concept with which they launched the brand. As far as ideas go, it was suitably attention-grabbing for a house that was just starting out, but in the long-run, it was bound to become limiting. They’ve now widened their scope to include rituals, pleasures, favourite pastimes etc, which is why they can legitimately turn their attention to tea. Mind you, even though their theme now has broader appeal, their work is no less bold and polarising than it used to be. Infuse instantly falls into the camp currently occupied by their Smoke, Ink and Night, in the sense that from its very opening, it makes its intentions loud and clear. Taking its inspiration from oolong, this is tea as an entity that is earthy, fermented, metallic, spicy and deeply strange — a striking composition that’s always on the verge of turning ‘infuse’ into ‘stew’, and is all the more interesting for it. Those seeking tea of the sort Jean-Claude Ellena presented to us in Bulgari Eau Parfumee Eau The Vert may find the size and strength of this stuff too much to take. But as an expression of the power of nature to give us gifts that are more complex than anything we could conceive ourselves, it’s fascinating. I’d urge you to try it, and to take some time getting to know it.
Equally compelling is Rendez-Vous, a convincingly gender-bending piece of work by Antoine Lie for photographer Sonia Sieff, released to tie in with the publication of a book of male nudes. It takes someone of Lie’s talent and experience to present the contrasts between olfactory gender codes with clarity and precision, and he rises to the challenge beautifully here, balancing woods and florals, fruit and spices, curves and straight lines. A true meeting of opposites.
Finally, I’m glad I’ve managed to fill the gaps in my Parfum D’Empire reviews. The only one left for me to dissect is the brand new Un Bel Amour D’Ete, a sample of which I shall try to get as soon as possible. Thank goodness a few people like Marc-Antoine Corticchiato are still around, giving us work of the highest quality, in which lucid ideas are expressed with intelligence and legibility. All of the scents I reviewed in the latest video have something interesting to say, but I was especially struck by 3 Fleurs (an astonishingly harmonious blend of rose, jasmine and tuberose; think Paris meets Poison, or Catherine Deneuve meets Penlope Cruz), Yuzu Fou (effervescent citruses ending on a dashing, woody-musky drydown reminiscent of Eau Sauvage; very Cary Grant with a twinkle in his eye) and Eau De Gloire (immortelle, neroli and frankincense employed to evoke the wisdom of mythical sages). Amongst today’s perfumers, few give us naturalistic landscape paintings that are as impassioned, kinetic and cliche-free as Corticchiato’s, so I hope he’s not planning on putting away his pipettes any time soon.
For my other Parfum D’Empire reviews please click on this link and this link.
Persolaise
[Akro sample provided by the brand; BDK sample provided by Harvey Nichols; Rendez-vous! sample provided by Sainte Cellier; Liquides Imaginaires sample provided by Les Senteurs; Parfum D’Empire samples obtained by me.]
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