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An air of bracing freshness swept through my most recent episode of Love At First Scent, thanks to the sunny vitality of Guerlain’s new Neroli Plein Sud, their blossom-focussed Florabloom, the green effervescence of the Hermes H24 flanker, Herbes Vives, and the outdoorsy, nature-loving aesthetic of Ffern. Here’s a link to the episode, followed by a few more thoughts on some of the scents: Guerlain Neroli Plein Sud, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Florabloom, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Florabloom Forte, Hermes H24 Herbes Vives and Ffern reviews.

Guerlain Neroli Plein Sud (Delphine Jelk) 2:36
Hermes H24 Herbes Vives (Christine Nagel) 23:58
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Florabloom &
Florabloom Forte (Delphine Jelk) 36:03
Ffern showcase (incl. Autumn 23 & Winter 24
by Elodie Durande) 45:51

The tuberose mentioned in the Florabloom press release does make its presence known in the drydown of both the edt and edp versions, but only as a sort of thin, super-scrubbed representation of the flower, stripped of its usual drama. That said, the composition is almost frighteningly diffusive, so it’s likely to fare well at the tills. The drydown is also the most disappointing element of Herbes Vives, where the woody ambers are allowed excessive dominance over the greens of the opening. The best of the H24 range remains the original edt from 2021.

The real winner – although perhaps not from the point of view of our bank accounts – is Neroli Plein Sud. As its name suggests, Jelk’s composition is filled with a tremendous sense of movement, using both hot and cool spices – notably cinnamon, clove and ginger – to propel the metallic-floral central note towards an auburn horizon. Whether that’s romance enough to justify a price tag of £295 for 100 ml is probably best left as a personal decision.

Persolaise

[Samples provided by the brands in 2023 and 2024.]


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Guerlain Neroli Plein Sud review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2024

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3 thought on “Guerlain Neroli Plein Sud, Aqua Allegoria Florabloom, Hermes H24 Herbes Vives and Ffern reviews – 2024”
  1. Hello Dariush, it is nice to read the blog post as a sort of follow up to the YouTube review, it acts as a sort of short brief and conclusion at the same time ! It reminded me to go over my bottles of H24 edt and EDP and I saw how much I wore them, especially the edt, since it came out. A very appropriate scent for the spring we long for in West-central France !

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