Dior have now created so many versions and flankers of Miss Dior, they must surely have enough to make up a football team, with plenty of players left over for the substitute bench. But whether they’d win any trophies at some sort of Scented World Cup is doubtful, because with every iteration, the Miss Dior idea seems to be pandering more and more to the demands of the lowest common denominator. I reviewed the latest incarnation – a ‘parfum’ composed by Francis Kurkdjian – in a recent episode of Love At First Scent. On the same day, I broadcast reviews of releases from Gucci, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Nez 1+1. Here are links to all the videos, and if you keep scrolling, you’ll find some further thoughts on some of the compositions (as well as timestamps, where relevant): Christian Dior Miss Dior parfum 2024 review — Gucci A Reason To Love review — L’Artisan Parfumeur La Botanique showcase review — Nez 1+1 showcase review.
To give the new Miss Dior its due, once you’ve made it through the excessive sugary-fruitiness (the perfumery equivalent of the American high school comedy dimwit, spouting inane chatter) there is a suggestion of a calmer, drier, more considered chypre base. But the journey to this stage is trying, and the rewards offered by the destination don’t make the effort worthwhile.
For many reasons, L’Artisan Parfumeur remains one of my favourite brands, but I’m not sure their portfolio has been substantially improved by their Botanique range, so far single-handedly composed by Daphne Bugey. It’s difficult to work out precisely who these scents are for: the price points are high, the packaging is ‘moodily arty’, but the scents themselves are decidedly undemanding, focussing on the portrayal of a straightforward, easily legible idea, rather than more abstract concepts. Perhaps the market is people who wish to spend a large amount of money (because this makes them feel they’re getting something ‘valuable’) while not wanting to think about the actual composition and smell of what they’ve sprayed onto themselves. Heaven knows, this particular demographic is large, and probably growing. That said, the ones that are worth checking out are: Mirabilis (a well-constructed, if rather predictable frankincense), Arcana Rosa (which combines greens and unexpectedly dark woods with its central rose note) and Venenum (chai-style, spicy steamed milk over creamy sandalwood).
Sadly, the most interesting perfumes mentioned in this post are also the most difficult to obtain. Indeed, some of them are already sold out on their official retail platforms and have to be sought at secondary sellers. I am, of course, referring to the Nez 1+1 range. Created and orchestrated by the team behind the excellent Nez magazine, it consists of scents that emerge from a collaboration between a perfumer and an artist working in a different field. The results are never less than fascinating, and in some cases (Folia, Le Lac, last year’s Adorem) they’re exceptional. If you know that perfumery can be so very, very much more than the latest Miss Dior, do make an effort to add these to your collection.
Finally, I can’t let this day go by without mentioning that it marks the 14th anniversary of the time when I first hit the ‘Publish’ button here on Persolaise.com. I’ve said this before and I don’t mind saying it again and again: there is absolutely no doubt that I wouldn’t have made it this far without your generosity, your kindness and, of course, your encouragement. Thank you for being the best readers and viewers anyone could ask for.
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Venenum 3:20
Crepusculum Mirabile 5:57
Arcana Rosa 8:46
Obscuratio 10:58
Mirabilis 13:39
Tenebrae 15:46
Armoressence (Nicolas Beaulieu) 4:07
Ambre A Levres (Mathilde Bijaoui) 7:10
Folia (Julian Rasquinet) 10:46
In The Arboretum (Violaine Collas) 13:42
Le Lac (Annick Menardo) 16:55
Kraft Gomme (Marie Salamagne) 20:22
Persolaise
[Samples provided by the brands.]
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