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The roses just keep coming. Tom Ford has released three, which I have yet to try. The new flanker of Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire is called Rose Rose Rose. And L’Artisan Parfumeur have jumped on the bandwagon with the new Memoire De Roses, composed by Christophe Raynaud. I reviewed it in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, together with Arquiste Peau (Rodrigo Flores-Roux), Perris Vetiver Java and Marie Jeanne Brume D’Ete. As always, you can watch the video above, or by clicking on this link: L’Artisan Parfumeur Memoire De Roses, Arquiste Peau, Perris Vetiver Java, Marie Jeanne Brume D’Ete reviews.

Perhaps surprisingly, the most impressive of this quartet turned out to be the Marie Jeanne. The L’Artisan and the Perris both tick their respective boxes in a thoroughly convincing manner, but Brume D’Ete possesses a haunting, poetic quality that the other two perhaps lack. At a time when most compositions work very hard to withstand not only hours of wear, but also the combined effects of sweat, soap and washing machines, there’s something undemandingly delightful about a piece of work that makes a statement and then just fades away, confident in the knowledge that you’ll returnto it for more. Through its expertly-executed harmony of the sweetness of mandarin, the aromatic bite of rosemary and the electric energy of mint, Brume D’Ete bottles the essence of a perfect Med summer. And like a perfect summer, it knows that in order to become truly memorable, it mustn’t stick around for ever. Gorgeous work.

Persolaise

[Sample of the L’Artisan Parfumeur provided by the brand; the remainder were obtained by me.]


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L’Artisan Parfumeur Memoire De Roses, Marie Jeanne Brume D’Ete reviews by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise, 2022

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