Fragrance Du Bois
September has been notable for an absence of smells. To be sure, there’s been plenty for my nose to discover, but not a great deal of time in which to do the discovering. After the relatively relaxed pace of August, this last month has been a bit more fraught, not least because of some work that had to be done on Maison Persolaise and the ripple-effects of the disruption it caused. In the few free-ish moments that were available, I managed to work my way through some vials from Fragrance Du Bois*, although I can’t say I found the experience particularly edifying. In the interests of fairness, I should mention that there are a few scents in its catalogue I’ve yet to sniff. But on the evidence of those that have made their way to me, this isn’t a brand that is doing much to further the art of perfumery.
Sadly, a quick glance at the names of some of their creations is all that’s needed to gain an accurate impression of their wares. We have Oud Rouge, Oud Rose, Oud Bleu, Oud Vert, Oud Jaune, Oud Orange and of course the inevitable Oud Noir. It’s a list that smacks of somebody desperately scrambling for ideas, and the smells behind the monikers do nothing to disprove this. What’s even worse – but perhaps not at all surprising – is that within the generic predictability there’s nary a hint of any oud. You get everything else, mind: from wan fruity-florals to cardboard-cutout, 80s masculines. But oud? Don’t be silly.
The only ones from the range worth mentioning are Sahraa and Pure Oud. The former takes smoky, incense-laden woods and successfully gives them some bite with cooling spices and a spray of zesty, yellow grapefruit at the top. The latter does nothing with oud that we haven’t smelt before, but it’s characterful enough – animalic, brooding and steel-jawed – to be worthy of some attention.
Miller Harris Oud Eclat &
Hedonik Divine Perversion
Speaking of oud, Miller Harris have added to the world’s already far-too-large selection of agarwood scents with Oud Eclat*, composed by Emilie Bouge. Its idea (mix the dark danger of oud with the bracing qualities of pine) is interesting, but the execution doesn’t convince. The two halves come together in a way that suggests they’ve got some long-standing grudge against each other and can’t wait to part company again.
A curious sense of disharmony is also to be found in Hedonik Divine Perversion* (the first release from a new brand founded by Francesca Bianchi). However, in this case, I wonder if the effect is intentional. In terms of its structure, the scent isn’t unlike Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and Knize Ten, in that it places tart fruit notes over sweetness and tangy hide. But here, everything has been upped by several debauched notches, with the effect that the disparate elements come across as though they’re screaming for attention and refusing to meld into a cohesive whole. But then, non-compliance is a clever olfactory expression of perversion, so perhaps Bianchi knew precisely what she was doing when she was turning the volume knob to ‘Enough already!’ I have no doubt the fetishistic extravagance of the scent will be enjoyed by many.
Piguet Fracas
Finally, a few lines on the current formulation of Piguet Fracas*. In the weeks to come, I hope to share some thoughts on the brand’s existing line-up, but for now, I’ll just say that the edp of the original tuberose diva is in demonic shape, by which, of course, I mean great shape. I have no idea who’s behind this incarnation of Germaine Cellier‘s renowned 1948 original (is it still Aurelien Guichard?), but they deserve praise for maintaining a balance between the sensuality, the softness, the aggressiveness and the carnality of all the different facets. This is a beauty who genuinely manages to be both perverse and divine.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by me
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[…] a sin that Piguet seems to have slipped off our collective radar. As I wrote a little while ago, I plan to address this deficiency before too long, but today, I’d like to devote a few lines to […]
I concur with you on FdB. I for one really like Sahraa, was mesmerized from the very first sniff and have tested it on multiple occasions. Were it not for it’s exorbitant price I would have purchased it especially since Roja Musk Aoud is exorbitant on another level and I think the two kind of smell alike.
Was I glad to have wandered around Westfield London as soon as lockdown was over and pop into the Arabian Oud store since I wouldn’t have come across Andalusi. It was truly love at first scent! It instantly reminded me of both of the above, is at the fraction of the price and the scent on a strip lasts for days. The drydown is to die for.
Arabian Oud are overlooked too often.
Thanks for writing.