As far as I’m concerned, any new release from Guerlain is worth a sniff, but an addition to their L’Art & La Matiere range is especially exciting. The latest is Guerlain Iris Torrefie, which I review in episode 125 of Love At First Scent. Here’s a link to the video: Guerlain Iris Torrefie review.
I’ve struggled to make up my mind about this one, even though I’ve worn it several times over the course of the last few days, and smelt it on one blotter after another. This much is certain: I love the opening. The contrast between the iris and the coffee (far more pronounced on skin than on paper, and a superb homage to Olivier Polge’s Dior Homme) is precisely the sort of phenomenon that makes perfumery so special: an effect that cannot be achieved by any other forms of art. The iris is dry, haughty, regal. The coffee is party-loving, brash, rough around the edges. Their combination is like the meeting of two souls who realise wordlessly that it is the differences between them that will cause sparks to fly when they finally connect skin to skin. The olfactory link between the two appears to be violet, using its floral facets at one end and its warmth at the other to build a bridge across the poles.
And I wonder if this is why I eventually lose a bit of interest. The violet starts to take over, introducing a trying-too-hard sweetness to proceedings, which is the last thing that’s needed when the iris-coffee combo is still teasing with so many unexplored attributes. Perhaps the initial effect is one that technically cannot be sustained, which is why it has to make room for something less compelling. Or maybe Jelk felt that she ought to move her composition into somewhat safer territories as it approached its drydown. Either way, I’d urge you to seek this one out for yourselves: it’s certainly perplexing enough to justify hunting down a sample.
Persolaise
[Guerlain Iris Torrefie review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by the brand in 2020.]
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Many thanks for such an interesting review. I have always loved fragrances that include a coffee note, but not many of them seem to pique my interest. One of my favourites is the now discontinued Jo Malone Stephanotis & Cassia Cafe Cologne, which according to Jo herself, was inspired by the juxtaposition of a vase of Stephanotis lilies and a bag of coffee beans at the counter of a branch of the famous Dean & De Luca deli.
I have been wanting to say this, but words have eluded me until now:
I feel like I am attending a master class in perfumery every time I tune in to one of your Love At Firsf Scent episodes, except that the atmosphere is much less formal and more congenial.
Also, what you do (ie, bringing clarity and insight to the world of perfumery) has always been important, but perhaps it is most important in such difficult and dangerous times, where your channel acts as a “sanctuary” of sorts, and allows us to experience some semblance of normality amidst the chaos and uncertainty. So please continue to do what you do so well, and keep up the good work!
Stay safe and stay alert.
Warmest regards,
Michael
Michael, this is such a kind comment — thank you!
I learn so much from all of you, and I hope I’ll be able to keep broadcasting videos for a long time to come.
I am waiting for my little decant to arrive.
I think it would be so much fun to exchange live opinions on perfume with you.
I do hope you like it.
Thanks for writing.