Wearing Miller Harris Sublime Blossom – the subject of today’s review – made me think of the rare occasions when a perfumer has been able to return to an older composition and re-imagine it for a different brand. The most obvious recent example is Michel Almairac giving his own Parle Moi De Parfum range a close relative of Gucci Pour Homme in the form of the superb Papyrus Oud 71. Francis Kurkdjian indulged in a curious sideways move when he put together Burberry Her, which shares many features with his Baccarat Rouge. And now Bertrand Duchaufour seems to have moved back into the territories he explored with Penhaligon’s Amaranthine and Ostara in order to give birth to Sublime Blossom. What’s even more interesting is that the CEO of Miller Harris – Sarah Rotherham – held a senior position at Penhaligon’s when Duchaufour created most of his work for that brand, which could mean that Sublime Blossom marks a sort of reincarnation engendered not just by one, but by two parents.
But background connections aside, what is the actual olfactory link between these perfumes? Well, the much-missed Amaranthine was one of this century’s finest takes on ylang ylang: a white-on-white-on-white marvel with a unique signature and an irresistible, fluid sensuality. Ostara – also discontinued – was an excellent presentation of narcissus, using hyacinth, green notes and a meadow-ful of other ingredients to express rich, vernal optimism. Both scents were rightly lauded when they were launched and yet both failed to strike a chord with buyers, perhaps because their names were too odd, or their identities were too challenging or… who knows… the timing of their release just wasn’t right.
However, all is not lost, because their spirit lives on in Sublime Blossom. The milky voluptuousness and the ylang ylang have seeped in from Amaranthine. While Ostara’s contributions are the optimistic, dawn-loving florals, with an emphasis on honeysuckle, orange blossom and narcissus. The different strands come together in thoroughly convincing fashion, highlighting Duchaufour’s enviable ability to balance a large number of notes with seamless precision and allow each to have a fair share of the limelight. In a strong year for Miller Harris, this is an especially praiseworthy release.
[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Miller Harris in 2019.]
Persolaise
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Hello from Stockholm, where winter has arrived with lots of snow today (all of which has melted away already though). I have only recently discovered your work and I am already a big fan. Love at first scent is pure pleasure – it has come to the point where my husband enters our living room, sighs and says: “Oh no, you are watching Personalise again” …. 🙂
I have a question unrelated to this blog post, if that is that ok?
I have rediscovered Chanel Cuir de Russie EdT, and that has led me to a massive leather craving. Where to turn when my bottle is finished? Which are in your opinion the best leather fragrances currently on offer?
And also, have you ever done theme shows at Love at first scent? Like: “Five best Chypres of all time” type of thing?
Cheers,
Isabel
First of all, yes, of course, you can ask any question you like.
And secondly… please apologise to your husband on my behalf 🙂 But thank you so much for watching the videos and for taking the time to write.
The main thing I’d say in response to your question is: buy another bottle of the Chanel! It really is sublime and I can’t think of a perfect substitute off the top of my head. Of course, there are lots of beautiful leather scents out there, but they’re all different from each other to varying degrees.
As for a themed episode of Love At First Scent, yes, the idea has crossed my mind several times, and I probably will broadcast one soon, but everything comes down to time and logistics. A themed video would be more difficult to set up than a video in which I just smell whichever new releases happen to be on my desk… and I’m afraid time tends to be a precious commodity at Maison Persolaise. But yes, I think I ought to venture into the realm of themed broadcasts. Maybe I should start with leathers!
Thanks again for your support.
I look forward to that 🙂
Cheers
And thanks for your reply about Chanel Cuir de Russie. I don’t love the EdP as I love the EdT, but I will give it a second try.
Ah, sorry, sorry! I was being slow there. You see, I automatically associate CdR with the EDT. I keep forgetting Chanel have changed all the Exclusifs to EDPs.
I totally agree that the EDT is superior. I do love the current EDP, but I find it less sophisticated and unnecessarily heavy. It’s as though it hasn’t been given enough room to breathe. And the drydown feels clunky in comparison.
Have you ever tried Hermes Cuir D’Ange? It’s not a ‘mirror substitute’ by any means, but I think it has much of the EDT’s sweep and majesty.
Oh, I am so glad you mention Cuir d’Ange! I managed to squeeze a sample from the Hermes boutique a couple of weeks ago, and I have been inhaling it almost every day since. My sample is now all but finished, and I have been wondering whether I should buy a full bottle or if I there are great leather scents out there that I should try first. Sweep and majesty, I love that 🙂 I am now at least one step closer to a purchase. Many thanks 🙂
You’re more than welcome. Please let me know if you do decide to buy it.