Maybe because they’re something of a rarity nowadays, perfumes with pronounced green notes seem to have become conjurers of the fantastical – of realms populated by sprites, legends and supernatural unknowns. A few years ago, the much-missed Vero Kern’s Mito painted a multi-hued image of a preternatual garden. In 2017 Papillon Dryad channelled ancient tales of forest-dwelling nymphs. And now Karen Timson Hermia plays a similar tune, weaving the hyper-verdant grandness of galbanum into pepper, citruses and what feels like a sharp, nettle note to create a tapestry that more than justifies the reference to A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Personally, I feel the scent’s journey to a relatively straightforward vetiver drydown is too rapid: I would have loved the interplay between the leafy opening and the woodier base to hang around longer. But then, Shakespeare’s night in the forest didn’t last terribly long either, so perhaps Hermia is meant to be a lesson in enjoying pleasures while they last. Because as soon as we open our eyes, they’ll vanish. Like a puff of fairy dust.
[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Karen Timson in 2019.]
Persolaise
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