A selection of mini-reviews published on social media between April and June 2019. For more, please click here.
Cologne Fly Away from Mugler (Sonia Constant; 2018)*
The ginger-grapefruit-aniseed opening certainly conveys a suitable sense of movement and ‘uplift’, but the effect doesn’t last and resorts to safe, soapy cleanliness.
Nomade edt from Chloé (Quentin Bisch; 2019)*
Quentin Bisch’s charming modern chypre from last year – limpid freesias over nearly-bitter mosses – made more energetic with a lychee note so well-judged and convincing, it reminds you that anything can work in perfumery – even lychee – when used by skilled hands.
Pacific Lime from Atelier Cologne (2018)*
The Atelier Cologne scents that try the hardest are often their most disappointing, which is why it’s pleasing that they still produce effortless little ditties such as the new Pacific Lime. Sweet citrus fruit and coconut – the latter underplayed, thankfully – next to bracing aromatics and bright, holiday-sun greens. Served cold. With a smile. And minimal fuss.
Acqua Travelis from Wide Society (Alexandra Monet; 2018)*
I’ve enjoyed getting to know the debut scents from Wide Society (created by the people behind The Different Company) and I’d say Acqua Travelis works well as an evocation of the elegance to which all travellers should aspire — a crisp, sparkling (but never strident or over-sharp) mix of tart verbena (you can almost feel yourself rubbing the leaves between your fingers) and carefree citruses, over a decorously balanced base of musks. Restrained, polite and all the better for it.
Vanori from Sylvaine Delacourte (Irene Farmachidi; 2018)*
Another of the brand’s vanillas. Presents the familiar players in ‘tropical’ scents – frangipani, honey, grapefruit – but with a half-hearted quality that makes it feel like receiving a faded postcard from a destination rather than being present in it.
Vangelis from Sylvaine Delacourte (Irene Farmachidi; 2018)*
Don’t expect dramatic Chariots Of Fire chords. This is a straightforward, spicy vanilla, heavily reliant on a base of musks.
Virgile from Sylvaine Delacourte (Irene Farmachidi; 2018)*
As an attempt at a bright, sunny vanilla, it succeeds at its start, using citruses and what feels like a faint rosemary note to bring sparkle and luminosity to proceedings. Then becomes rather predictably sweet and musky.
British Leather from Dunhill (2019)*
A gorgeous, dry-chamois tangy-ness hits you first – promising even better things to come – but then comes a bloated, synthetic-heavy, 80s fougere, overloaded with unconvincing woods, citruses and spices.
Frangipani Flower from Jo Malone (Marie Salamagne; 2019)*
Frangipani as bottled by a shampoo brand with delusions of elegance, which means it smells more of apples, peaches and musks than anything else. It wears its timidity on its Sloane-y sleeve.
Fleur De Marbre from Noble Royale (Philippe Paparella-Paris; 2018)*
One of those unconvincing hazelnutty openings leading to an acrid, sour cherry, apple concoction with a distinct whiff of hairspray gone wrong. Sports an unpleasant leer.
Cuir Magnifique from Noble Royale (Philippe Paparella-Paris; 2018)*
Predictable citrus-leather (lifted by an attempt at a sweet, freesia-like note) that just about manages to remain palatable.
Persolaise
* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by me
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