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Orange Leaf from Perfumer H (Lyn Harris; 2017)*

Cologne-like presentation of a vivid citrus leaf on a smouldering bark of wood. Displays typical Harris clarity.
Bat from Zoologist (Ellen Covey; 2015)***
Exactly like stepping inside damp, dank, deadly dungeon. Musty. Fetid. Mouldy. Disturbing. Quite extraordinary. But wearable?
Flower Eau De Lumiere from Kenzo (Alberto Morillas & Amandine Clerc-Marie; 2017)*
Fascinating flanker, ditching steamed musks in favour of sensual blossoms. Definite red tint to this lumiere.

Rose Ardente from Givenchy (Nicolas Bonneville; 2017)*
Commendable presentation of the entire plant, from honeyed petals to treacherous thorns. Deceptively innocent.
Ambre Royal from Ormonde Jayne (2016)*
Wonderful cardamom start to the classic amber accord, but rapidly loses all majesty as it approaches drydown.
Alien Musc Mystérieux from Mugler (Dominique Ropion; 2017)*
Animalic musks + that familiar weird jasmine. Turns out the Alien spaceship contained a filthy barn all along.
Gelsomini Di Capri from Carthusia (Luca Maffei; 2009/2017)*
The scent of Neapolitan jasmine caught on a coastal breeze. Never too heavy. Never too ostentatious. Lovely.
Escentric 04 from Escentric Molecule (Geza Schoen; 2017)*
Compelling exploration of the synth sandalwood material, Javanol, exploiting its grapefruit facets. Clever.
Pink Flamingos from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
Sticky, cough-syrup edge is meant to represent cherries, placed over more of that yawn-worthy iris-&-soap Prada-ness.
Marienbad from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
Well-behaved leather-amber, with less of that pale iris signature, thankfully. More characterful than other Olfactories.
Nue Au Soleil from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
White floral idea peeks through background, but is dominated by that clean, ‘I’m not wearing perfume’ Prada signature.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author
*** sample provided by Bloom Perfumery

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