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Orange Leaf from Perfumer H (Lyn Harris; 2017)*
Cologne-like presentation of a vivid citrus leaf on a smouldering bark of wood. Displays typical Harris clarity.
Bat from Zoologist (Ellen Covey; 2015)***
Exactly like stepping inside damp, dank, deadly dungeon. Musty. Fetid. Mouldy. Disturbing. Quite extraordinary. But wearable?
Flower Eau De Lumiere from Kenzo (Alberto Morillas & Amandine Clerc-Marie; 2017)*
Fascinating flanker, ditching steamed musks in favour of sensual blossoms. Definite red tint to this lumiere.
Commendable presentation of the entire plant, from honeyed petals to treacherous thorns. Deceptively innocent.
Ambre Royal from Ormonde Jayne (2016)*
Wonderful cardamom start to the classic amber accord, but rapidly loses all majesty as it approaches drydown.
Alien Musc Mystérieux from Mugler (Dominique Ropion; 2017)*
Animalic musks + that familiar weird jasmine. Turns out the Alien spaceship contained a filthy barn all along.
Gelsomini Di Capri from Carthusia (Luca Maffei; 2009/2017)*
The scent of Neapolitan jasmine caught on a coastal breeze. Never too heavy. Never too ostentatious. Lovely.
Escentric 04 from Escentric Molecule (Geza Schoen; 2017)*
Compelling exploration of the synth sandalwood material, Javanol, exploiting its grapefruit facets. Clever.
Pink Flamingos from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
Sticky, cough-syrup edge is meant to represent cherries, placed over more of that yawn-worthy iris-&-soap Prada-ness.
Marienbad from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
Well-behaved leather-amber, with less of that pale iris signature, thankfully. More characterful than other Olfactories.
Nue Au Soleil from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2015)*
White floral idea peeks through background, but is dominated by that clean, ‘I’m not wearing perfume’ Prada signature.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author
*** sample provided by Bloom Perfumery
** sample obtained by the author
*** sample provided by Bloom Perfumery
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