Here’s part 2 of the latest mini-review round-up. For part 1, please click here.
Missoni edt from Missoni (Quentin Bisch; 2016)*
Last year’s rainbow-hued, calorie bomb of an edp made more diffusive and, astonishingly, more sugary. Diabetics beware.
Another Oud from Juliette Has A Gun (Romano Ricci; 2015)*
Well yeah, thanks for being honest. Usual, Arab-oudy mix of rough woods & thick-set musks, with fruity edge.
Well yeah, thanks for being honest. Usual, Arab-oudy mix of rough woods & thick-set musks, with fruity edge.
Gentlewoman from Juliette Has A Gun (Romano Ricci; 2015)*
Mainstream cologne, with emphasis on neroli and bergamot, perhaps to suggest femininity. Certainly gentle.
Mainstream cologne, with emphasis on neroli and bergamot, perhaps to suggest femininity. Certainly gentle.
Incense Oud from Nicolaï (Patricia De Nicolaï; 2016)*
Green, artemisia-based oud of Oud Sublime, with more ecclesiastical bent. Attractive, but less memorable than Sublime.
Green, artemisia-based oud of Oud Sublime, with more ecclesiastical bent. Attractive, but less memorable than Sublime.
Pink Peony & Rhubarb from Bronnley (2016)*
Likeable, brightly-lit floral, not unlike low-cal version of YSL Paris. Peony is prominent; rhubarb less so.
Promenade Des Anglais from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2016)*
Edp version of Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris. Gentle, soapy fig note, moving to mono-dimensional woods. Shrug.
Edp version of Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris. Gentle, soapy fig note, moving to mono-dimensional woods. Shrug.
Néroli Outrenoir from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser & Delphine Jelk; 2016)*
Room-filling marriage of neroli, tea & myrrh. As gleeful & easy-going as it sounds, but maybe a touch too sweet.
Room-filling marriage of neroli, tea & myrrh. As gleeful & easy-going as it sounds, but maybe a touch too sweet.
Dylan Blue from Versace (2016)*
There’s a clue in the name as to how I feel when I smell these tired, cynical, by-the-numbers citrus-woody-amber clones.
There’s a clue in the name as to how I feel when I smell these tired, cynical, by-the-numbers citrus-woody-amber clones.
Lime Absolue from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Karine Chevallier; 2014)*
Exceptional lime opening (dry, floral, cedar-y, bracing) moves to gently soapy base. Great as a cologne.
Exceptional lime opening (dry, floral, cedar-y, bracing) moves to gently soapy base. Great as a cologne.
Vague De Folie Verte from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Antoine Lie; 2014)*
Velvet. Lilac. Mint. Clover. Water. They all come together in intriguing fashion. Woody base.
Velvet. Lilac. Mint. Clover. Water. They all come together in intriguing fashion. Woody base.
L’Eau À La Bouche from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Cecile Matton; 2013)*
Spineless ozonic-citrus affair. Probably trying to be silent & interesting. Only manages the former.
Spineless ozonic-citrus affair. Probably trying to be silent & interesting. Only manages the former.
Osmanthé from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Jean-Christophe Herault; 2015)*
Vibrant osmanthus composition, with apricot, leather & tea edges. Keeps drawing you back for more. Lovely.
Vibrant osmanthus composition, with apricot, leather & tea edges. Keeps drawing you back for more. Lovely.
Magnol’Art from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Amelie Bourgeois; 2014)*
Grandiose magnolia, in wide-shoulder-pads, Boucheron Femme style. Florals well sustained to the drydown.
Grandiose magnolia, in wide-shoulder-pads, Boucheron Femme style. Florals well sustained to the drydown.
La Dame Blanche from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Julie Massé; 2013)*
Brand says tuberose, but all I’m getting is wan rose notes beneath mango, melon, cucumber. Innocuous.
A L’Iris from Le Cercle Des Parfumeurs Createurs (Nathalie Feisthauer; 2013)*
Pear & lily of the valley make way for delicate iris note, which then leads to clean, soapy base. Pleasant.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author
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As always, I appreciate your mini reviews as a guide through the hyperproduction in perfumery. I also love your sarcasm and honesty.
Neva, thank you so much! Sarcasm and honesty… is that a good combo?