A List For Falling Leaves – Scents For Autumn
Persolaise It’s joint-list-making time again. On this occasion, it’s Barney‘s turn to choose our theme and he’s drawn inspiration from that touch of dampness in the air… the plunging temperatures… the…
perfume review
Persolaise Review: Coco Noir from Chanel and Grand Bal from Christian Dior (2012)
Whilst watching Joe Wright’s over-egged version of Anna Karenina, I wondered if the impeccably groomed counts and countesses waltzing across the screen could possibly have worn François Demachy‘s new Grand…
Persolaise Review: Déclaration D’Un Soir + Eau De Cartier Essence De Bois from Cartier + Colonia Intensa Oud from Acqua Di Parma (2012)
Perfume review: Cartier Declaration D'Un Soir & Eau De Cartier Essence De Bois, Acqua Di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud
Persolaise Review: SE1 + N6 + W1X + EC2 from Bex London (2012)
I don’t envy anyone trying to start a niche perfume brand today. In an environment where over 1000 fragrances are released every year, standing out from the crowd is virtually…
Persolaise Review: Eau Sauvage parfum + Addict Eau Sensuelle from Christian Dior (2012) + Premiere from Gucci (2012) + Eau Dynamisante from Clarins (1987/2012)
Most of Dior’s recent alterations to their main fragrance range (fiddling around with the names of the various Miss Diors, tinkering with the Addicts etc) have been baffling, to say…
When Does A Negative Become A Positive?
Every now and then, the question of the value of negative reviews raises its head, which is why a recent article by the restaurant critic Jay Rayner grabbed my attention.…
Persolaise Review: Mukhalat Malaki from Swiss Arabian + Perfume Calligraphy from Aramis + Encounter from Calvin Klein (2012)
It’s always round about this time of year (can’t think why) that I tend to be asked what makes so-called Arabic-style perfumes smell so… Arabic. If I were a chemist…
Persolaise Review: Notes + Bois Noir + Casbah + Mademoiselle + Oud from Robert Piguet (2012)
Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd – the company that currently owns the licence for Robert Piguet Parfums – was always going to face a tricky, ‘turning the corner’ moment at…
Persolaise Review: La Petite Robe Noire + Déserts D’Orient from Guerlain (2012)
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire perfume review by award-winning critic, Persolaise (2012, Thierry Wasser, fragrance)
Persolaise Review: Santal Majuscule from Serge Lutens + Alien eau de toilette + Alien Essence Absolue from Thierry Mugler + Amazingreen from Comme Des Garçons (2012)
Image: Papillio Asking whether a perfume contains real East Indian sandalwood is almost as pointless as asking whether it contains real oud: as has been widely reported, the finest quality…
Persolaise Review: Celtic Fire + Quince, Mint & Moss + Holy Thistle + Gothic Bluebell from Union + Diamond Jubilee Bouquet from Grossmith (2012)
It’s always tricky going for a unifying theme when creating a fragrance range. Some ideas seem more forced than others: the ‘Indian history’ approach of Neela Vermeire Creations generally attracted…
If You’re Going To Criticise Someone’s Work…
Yesterday, The Observer published Rachel Cooke’s review of Jean-Claude Ellena’s new book. Sadly, her appraisal did little more than remind me that mainstream media really shouldn’t tackle the subject of…
Persolaise Review: Peoneve from Penhaligon’s (2012) + Sepia (2012) + Secret Garden (2011) from Aftelier
In the catalogue of olfactory families, there’s a sub-set of florals that do everything they should with no unnecessary fanfare. They’re clever without being show-offs. They display excellent tenacity without…
Persolaise Review: Séville À L’Aube from L’Artisan Parfumeur (2012) + Orange Blossom + Jasmine from Organic Glam
You’re haunted by a ghost… but unlike other spectres, it seems to be approaching you from the future, rather than shadowing you from the past. You feel its presence upon…
Persolaise Review: Vetiver from Roja Parfums (2012) + Pour Femme, Pour Homme & Jaïpur Homme from Boucheron (2012)
Do we really need another vetivert? Well, of course, the answer to that is No, but then, if perfumery were an art form driven by nothing more than need, it…
Persolaise Review: Wrappings from Clinique (1990) + Eau De Lacoste L. 12. 12 Rouge from Lacoste (2012)
Clinique’s PR people call Wrappings their best kept secret, and they may well be right. Since its original release in 1990, it’s been available solely at top-end department stores, often…
Penhaligon’s Twitter Give-Away + Persolaise Review: Oud Ispahan from Christian Dior (2012) + Wood Mystique from Estée Lauder (2011)
It wasn’t too long ago that I was lamenting the inexorable rise in the number of oud-based releases. Although many people are willing to concede that some of these fragrances…
Persolaise Review: Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia from Guerlain + Nuit Étoilée from Annick Goutal (2012)
Since he took up his post as in-house nose at Guerlain, the quality of Thierry Wasser‘s creations for the house has been variable. Idylle continues to attract derision from fans…
Persolaise Review: Precious One from Precious + Idole eau de parfum from Lubin + Flora By Gucci Gracious Tuberose from Gucci (2011)
Somewhere, tucked away in an inconspicuous building not far from the City of London, is a perfumer who delights in reminding us what fragrance used to be like. And she…
Persolaise Review: Reckless from Roja Parfums (2011) + Yellow Diamond from Versace (2012)
It’s all very well encouraging fragrance houses to propel the art of perfumery towards the future, but sometimes, it’s beneficial to look back to the past. Most other art forms…