Persolaise Review: Aperture from Ulrich Lang (2013)
Persolaise You know a perfume is sufficiently interesting in its own right when wearing it makes you forget its marketing baggage. In this case, the ‘story’ revolves around photography and Lang’s…
perfume review
Persolaise Review: Kerbside Violet from Gorilla Perfume (Simon & Mark Constantine; 2014)
Violet leaf absolute is one of those materials which serve to show how utterly impossible it is to describe smells with words. In perfumer-shorthand, it’s called ‘green’, but that places…
Persolaise Review: Tobacco Rose, Anubis & Angélique from Papillon (Liz Moores; 2014)
When I interviewed Papillon’s founder, Liz Moores*, I told her that, putting aside the issue of personal taste, the most striking feature of her debut scents is that they are…
Persolaise Review: Mitsouko from Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain; 1919 [and Thierry Wasser; 2013/14])
Guerlain Mitsouko reformulation review by award-winning critic Persolaise (Jacques Guerlain, Thierry Wasser, scent)
Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter – July to September 2014 [part 2]
Here’s the second part of my compilation of Twitter mini-reviews published between July and September 2014. Cologne from Etat Libre D’Orange (Alexandra Kosinski; 2014)* Pays homage to Mugler’s Cologne. Citruses…
Persolaise Review: Dior Homme Parfum from Christian Dior (François Demachy; 2014)
Dior Homme parfum review by award-winning perfume critic Persolaise (Francois Demachy, 2014)
Persolaise Review: Patchouli Absolu from Tom Ford (2014)
Watch out, the 70s have just walked into the room. Or have they? The first thing that attacks you from Tom Ford‘s latest Private Blend is, appropriately enough, a bell-bottom-wearing,…
Persolaise Review: Sylvan Song from Grossmith (Celine Guivarch; 2014)
Sometimes you just need to stick to what you know best. On occasion, the output of the revived Grossmith has been dismissed as mere ‘heritage perfumery’, but there’s nothing intrinsically…
Persolaise Review: Concrete Flower from Atelier PMP (Mark Buxton; 2014)
As far as I’m concerned, any brand which releases only one new perfume per year is worthy of serious attention. In an environment where even niche outfits seem unable to…
Persolaise Review: Cuir D’Ange from Hermès (Jean-Claude Ellena; 2014)
In David Almond’s book, Skellig, a young boy encounters a strange man in the ramshackle shed at his new house. He’s filthy, his clothes are in tatters and he reeks…
Persolaise Review: L’Homme Ideal from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2014)
It’s probably fair to say that Guerlain is in a tricky position. On the one hand, it has to satisfy its owners by churning out a steady stream of till-friendly…
Persolaise Review: Rose Flash from Tauerville (Andy Tauer; 2014)
Roses are always an easy sell for me – the result of a youth spent in the Middle East? – but when they’re touched by the hand of Andy Tauer,…
Persolaise Review: L’Incendiaire from Serge Lutens (Christopher Sheldrake; 2014)
I don’t often pass comment on the price of new perfume releases, but sometimes it’s hard not to. The latest scent from Serge Lutens – the first in what is…
Persolaise Review: La Panthère extrait from Cartier (Mathilde Laurent; 2014)
Cartier‘s menagerie is growing. Less than a year since the eau de parfum of La Panthère was released, the brand has just revealed the extrait version – in an equally…
Persolaise Review: Rien Intense Incense from Etat Libre D’Orange (Antoine Lie; 2014)
Could Rien possibly get any bigger? Yes and no. Soon after it bulldozed its way onto the market in 2006, the scent became the very definition of a perfumery juggernaut.…
Persolaise Review: Oeillet Bengale from Aedes De Venustas (Rodrigo Flores-Roux; 2014)
Wearing Oeillet Bengale makes it clear why the collective noun for a group of carnations is usually ‘spray’. Rodrigo Flores-Roux has put together this new release from Aedes De Venustas…
Persolaise Review: Sotto La Luna Gardenia from Tauer Perfumes (Andy Tauer; 2014)
Even though it was published just last week, my review of Cartier’s new gardenia scent, La Panthère, was written quite some time ago, whilst I was in the process of…
Persolaise Review: La Panthère from Cartier (Mathilde Laurent; 2014)
Mathilde Laurent‘s La Panthère for Cartier is a curious beast. Several commentators have been coaxed into blissful submission by what they’ve discerned as a warm, seductive purr emanating from the…
Persolaise Review: Journey Woman and Journey Man from Amouage (Alberto Morillas and Pierre Negrin, 2014)
In the non-perfume-related aspects of my professional life, I’m frequently reminded of a wise proverb: punish the sin, not the sinner. Journey Woman and Journey Man (both by Alberto Morillas…
Persolaise Review: Rozy from Vero Profumo (Vero Kern; 2014)
Here’s how you can tell that Vero Kern really loves perfume: the drydowns of all her creations – the epilogues of their existence – are always gorgeous. Like most die-hard…