Persolaise Review: Phi – Une Rose De Kandahar from Tauer Perfumes (Andy Tauer; 2013)
I wonder if Andy Tauer has ever smelt the original Fougère Royale. I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of Paul Parquet‘s masterpiece quite recently at the Osmothèque in…
“Nahema Is A Weapon Of Mass Destruction” – Guerlain’s Thierry Wasser Pops Into London Again
Thierry Wasser was on fine form during a recent visit to London. When one of the writers in attendance suggested that Boots is the British equivalent of Sephora, he begged…
Persolaise Review: Égoïste from Chanel (Jacques Polge; 1990) + No 5 Jumps In The Bath
As Égoïste has now been allowed to take its rightful place at all UK Chanel counters (until very recently, it was available only at the brand’s own boutiques) the time…
A Little Bit Of Oud – Alberto Morillas On Making Iris Prima For Penhaligon’s
When Alberto Morillas (CK One, Kenzo Flower) hopped over to London a few months ago to launch Penhaligon’s Iris Prima, he revealed that the perfume contains – shock horror –…
Perfume, Poland And The Past – Scented Memories On All Saints’ Day
“Sometimes, this is not easy,” she says. “You know, after a long day at work, when you’re far away from home and nobody has much time for you, the last…
Persolaise Review: La Fin Du Monde from Etat Libre D’Orange (Quentin Bisch; 2013)
There are several reasons to be excited about La Fin Du Monde. Firstly, it’s this year’s only release from Etat Libre D’Orange, a house which consistently manages to combine quirkiness…
Persolaise Review: Bottega Veneta Pour Homme from Bottega Veneta (Daniela Andrier & Antoine Maisondieu; 2013)
I keep smelling Amouage‘s Epic Man everywhere! Perhaps the substances responsible for its distinctive, ghosts-of-antiquity woodiness are becoming more readily available to perfumers. Or maybe other brands just want to…
As Playful As Ever? – New TV Ads for Gaultier’s Classique And Le Male
At the recent London launch of the new TV advert for Gaultier‘s Classique and Le Male, Isabelle Fulconis* claimed that one of the main challenges faced by the team responsible…
Persolaise Review: London, Tobacco Oud, Oud Fleur & Oud Wood from Tom Ford (2013)
Back when YSL‘s M7 was worthy of the image of a naked, hairy martial arts expert, I bought myself a bottle of one of the scent’s ancillary products, a so-called…
Who Do You Work For? – Thoughts On Blogs And Perfume Criticism
In his editorial in the current issue of Sight & Sound, Nick James considers recent developments in the world of film criticism. He explains that many newspapers have closed down…
Persolaise Review: The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet from Atkinsons (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2013)
Fabrice Pellegrin is particularly skilled at finding a balance between accessibility and distinctiveness. In The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet (one of two works he’s created for the revived house of Atkinson’s,…
Make Perfume Not War – Histoires De Parfums’ Gérald Ghislain Turns To Charity
A few days ago, I bemoaned perfume brands’ growing reliance on unconvincing stories to sell their wares. Well, round about the same time, as if on cue, an email popped…
The Rise And Rise Of The In-House Perfumer – Persolaise In The Financial Times
What will Jacques make for these Louis Ladies? Jasmine Award-winner Emma Hill has just had a brief piece published in the Financial Times on the subject of in-house perfumers. I’m…
Persolaise Review: 1996 from Byredo (Jérôme Epinette; 2013)
I don’t envy perfume brands the task of coming up with a ‘story’ for a new release. It’s a thankless job, fraught with paradoxes. If the perfume is sub-standard, its…
I Love You, Man – Male Relationships In Pictures
My recent review of Aramis’ Perfume Calligraphy Rose and my suggestion that Etro’s current male clothing collection would go well with Tauer’s Une Rose Chypree prompted several interesting emails from…
Persolaise Review: Cuir 28 from Le Labo (Nathalie Lorson; 2013)
Those who take an interest in such matters will be aware that Le Labo mentioned the arrival of its Dubai exclusive quite some time ago; at one point it seemed…