I don’t mind a bit of self-congratulation when it’s well-deserved. So I have absolutely no problem with the fact that the people at Frederic Malle have decided to mark the influential brand’s twentieth anniversary in fairly high-profile fashion. For one thing, they’ve created limited edition bottles of seven of their most popular scents, including Portrait Of A Lady, Carnal Flower and L’Eau D’Hiver. You’ll see from the images that these flacons feature a graphic listing all the house’s releases, together with – of course – the name of the perfumer who composed it. There are also special twentieth anniversary sample sets, as well as a new coffee-table book, published by Rizzoli. (I hope to be able to review it for you soon.)
Regular readers will know that from the moment I started Persolaise.com, I’ve been a vocal supporter of Malle and his efforts to maintain high standards within the industry. Indeed, one of the very first reviews I published here was of Geranium Pour Monsieur, and I think I’m right in saying that, since then, I’ve reviewed every single one of the brand’s releases. My YouTube video showcasing my Malle favourites is among my most watched; if you haven’t seen it, here’s a link — Top 10 Best Frederic Malle perfumes.
I’m well aware that when the company was acquired by Estee Lauder, many were worried that the end was nigh. Quality was bound to suffer, they said. But so far, I think they’ve been proved wrong. Yes, there have been some recent releases that I’ve enjoyed less than others – I still can’t quite bring myself to be complimentary towards Music For A While, although I’m willing to have my view changed one day. But then, even the original portfolio featured a few entries by which I was underwhelmed, Angeliques Sous La Pluie being the first that comes to mind right now.
On the strength of the evidence of the last few years, I’d say that Frederic Malle remains very much a Frederic Malle brand. And I feel sure that the man’s apparent shift in style (generally speaking, his perfumes are made with pretty broad brush strokes at the moment) would have taken place regardless of whether his organisation had been bought by Lauder.
But putting that issue aside, there is no doubt in my mind that this major anniversary is worth celebrating. It is because of Frederic Malle’s personal efforts that so many more people are now aware that – shock horror – perfumes are actually made by people. It is because of his love of fragrance history that we’ve been treated to modern re-interpretations of classics such as Shalimar, No. 5 and Fracas. And it is thanks to his exacting nature that we can all enjoy the gems that are the aforementioned Portrait, as well as En Passant, Lipstick Rose, Une Fleur De Cassie, Dries Van Noten, Noir Epices, The Night… and so many more.
Here’s to the next twenty years!
Persolaise
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