Crivelli Cuir Infrarouge, Parfum D’Empire Un Bel Amour D’Ete, Buly Jardins Francais and other reviews – 2024

From late-night clubs to herbal gardens via steamy summer trysts — all sorts of carnal pleasures were on offer during my recent session of Love At First Scent episodes, in which I covered new (and not so new) releases from Crivelli, Trudon, Buly, Bastille and Parfum D’Empire. Here are links to all three videos, followed by further thoughts on some of the scents: Maison Crivelli Cuir Infrarouge review — Buly Les Jardins Francais showcase review — Trudon Isla, Parfum D’Empire Un Bel Amour D’Ete, Bastille 14 Juillet reviews.

Concombre D’Inde & Menthe De Syrie 5:06
Betterave D’Irak & Rhubarbe D’Egypte 10:35
Groseille De Scandinavie & Tomate Du Perou 13:22
Cresson D’Orient & Persil De Sardaigne 15:56

Trudon Isla (Emilie Bouge) 2:21
Bastille 14 Juillet (Meabh McCurtin) 8:10
Parfum D’Empire Un Bel Amour D’Ete (Marc-Antoine Corticchiato) 13:35

It’s not often that perfumery conveys a genuine sense of fun, but that’s precisely the feeling evoked by Buly’s garden collection, which is why it’s particularly disappointing that the brand seems to have chosen not to reveal the identity of the scent-makers on this occasion. It would have been great to know who’s tickling our funny bone. That issue aside, it’s worth delving into the Jardins, especially to seek out the cucumber and the cress (as well as the sweet potato and the verbena, which were covered in older videos). They’re naturalistic, easy-going, distinctive and surprisingly long-lasting. I should imagine theirs is a simplicity that is a result of hard work and talent.

A sense of fun is also evident in Bastille’s 14 Juillet. Perhaps we’re not meant to view the French Revolution is an enjoyable jolly, but here, in Meabh McCurtin’s hands, it’s presented as a wry, eyebrow-raising interplay between the explosiveness of gunpowder notes and a slinky vanilla. The feeling is much more ‘come join the party’ than ‘try not to get your head lopped off by a cannonball’, but I suspect that’s the point.

Finally, fun of the most adult variety is the focus of Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s Un Bel Amour D’Ete for his Parfum D’Empire house. Some have found this latest addition to one of the best brands around too sticky and heady. But had Corticchiato toned down the fleshier aspects of this retro-inflected composition, he would have deviated from its intention, which is to capture the all-consuming, almost unbearably oppressive nature of a summer romance. There’s a reason this curvaceous piece of work doesn’t hold back with the gardenia, the ylang ylang, the magnolia and the champaca. Some will get it, others won’t. And that’s absolutely fine. Its refusal to appeal to the lowest common denominator is praiseworthy.

Persolaise

[Samples provided by the brands for review purposes.]

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