Don’t say you haven’t been warned. When I had my first sniff of Penhaligon’s Legacy Of Petra, I told the brand’s representative that I expect the scent will be discontinued in less than a year, because almost all of my favourites from the house haven’t proved popular with customers. And I fear Petra is another one that gets the thumbs up from me. If you’d like to watch my review of it, in which I also mentioned the classic Hammam Bouquet, please click on this link: Penhaligon’s Legacy Of Petra and Hammam Bouquet reviews.
What makes Petra commendable is its relative boldness. One of the main problems with nearly all scent releases at the moment (aside from their sheer number) is that they’re far too timid. Hardly anybody seems willing to take risks any more, to push things in surprising directions, to dare to polarise. Sure, Legacy Of Petra isn’t wildly groundbreaking. But at least it’s considerably more assertive and distinctive than much of what we’ve had from the brand in recent years. Its combination of the meaty bitterness of myrrh, together with a striking pepper note, as well as an unexpectedly acerbic liquorice aspect could just be peculiar enough to make it a hit with those seeking a somewhat more eccentric olfactory profile. Or then again, it could die a rapid death. So try to sniff it before it’s too late.
A quick word on the current formulation of Hammam Bouquet, which was also featured in the video. I’m not quite sure when the folks at Puig cleaned up this 19th century stalwart. But whoever they assigned to the task has done a delightful job, energising the citrus top notes with a sparkle that makes you want to blink your eyes – as though you’ve just stepped into radiant sunshine – and endowing the rosy heart with an almost palpable sense of heft. The drydown is pure retro, of course. But then that’s precisely what we want from a fragrance that’s meant to evoke the imperial grandeur of Victorian England. Dense, powdery and velvety, it feels very much like stepping away from the thick grime of London into the milieu of ornate teacups, heavy drapes and impeccable manners. Wishful nostalgia, but a delight nonetheless.
Persolaise
[Penhaligon’s Legacy Of Petra and Hammam Bouquet reviews based on samples provided by the brand in 2022.]
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