Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle Review – Anne Flipo; 2021

A new release from Frederic Malle is always cause for excitement. But it is even more noteworthy when it’s the first scent we’ve had from the brand in about 2 years and when it’s been composed by a woman (still something of a rarity for the house). So I wasn’t surprised to see quite a few people tune in to my recent review of Synthetic Jungle, put together by the highly-respected Anne Flipo, whose CV features both Sephora-friendly pieces (La Vie Est Belle) as well as more independently-minded fare (Mont De Narcisse). Here’s a link to the video: Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle review. And for more thoughts, please keep reading.

Back when Malle sold his company to Estee Lauder, several commentators inevitably predicted that this would bring about the end of his creative freedom. Synthetic Jungle suggests very strongly that this has not turned out to be the case at all, because no matter what else the perfume may be, it is certainly not the sort of release that is favoured by Lauder and its many sub-brands. Indeed, it may well be the least commercially-minded piece of work Malle has given us since he went under the EL banner.

Synthetic Jungle isn’t just green (always one of the toughest genres to sell). It is hyper green, pumping out its cat-hiss verdancy with no attempt to attenuate its message or compromise its identity. It is also tenaciously green – sustaining the legibility of its central accord all the way from the shrill rhubarb top notes to the leafy drydown – unlike many other green compositions which, sooner or later, have to make room for the rootiness of vetiver or the funky quality of mosses. All this renders it both remarkable and praiseworthy.

Whether it is likeable is another matter, and will largely be a question of personal preference. Although Flipo’s work here is focussed and unapologetic, it might have been more memorable if it had allowed a rogue element to disrupt to impenetrable sheen of green. Or, dare I say it, if it had permitted a hint of life to stain the bloodlessness. As far as criticism goes, this may sound overly churlish – and in no way do I wish for it diminish the tremendous technical achievement that Synthetic Jungle represents. But there is an intangible quality that separates truly great, milestone perfumes from admirable museum pieces. And for the moment, I’m not convinced this release makes the leap from the latter to the former.

Persolaise

[Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle review based on a sample provided by the brand in 2021.]

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